Tag: crochet pattern

Paislee Baby Blanket

Posted on by handmadebystacyj

This written pattern for the Paislee Baby Blanket can be used with the video tutorial on the “Handmade by Stacy J” YouTube channel. It‘s a beginner friendly crochet pattern that makes a beautiful baby blanket. There is also a checklist attached to the pattern to help keep track of rows; And, you can access that by scrolling to the bottom of this page. Enjoy!

 

Difficulty level:

Easy

Stitches & Abbreviations Used:

Pattern is written in US Terms

Beg: Beginning

Bphdc: Back post half double crochet

Ch: Chain

Dc: Double Crochet 

Hdc: Half Double Crochet

MC: Main Color

Rep: Repeat

Sc: Single Crochet

Sk: Skip

Sl St: Slip Stitch

St (s): Stitch (es)

 

 

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Disclosure: If you choose to purchase your yarn through my affiliate links, please know that you will be allowing the companies to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more. This allows me to continue creating free content. Thank you for your support!!

Materials:

Size G+ (4.5 mm) Crochet Hook

Size H (5 mm) Crochet Hook

Main Color: Baby Bee Sweet Delight Prints (60% Acrylic / 40% Polyamide; 4 oz skein; Size 3 Lightweight) “Gageboy / #304” – 3.5 skeins (1319 yards)

#1 Accent Color: Baby Bee Soft & Sleek Baby Low-Pill Fiber (100% Low Pill Acrylic; 4 oz skein; Size 4 Medium weight) “Flannel / #030” –  (104 yards)

#2 Accent Color: Baby Bee Soft Stork Struck (50% Acrylic / 50% Tencil; 3.5 oz skein; Size 4 Medium weight) “Mint Charm / #05” – .5 skeins (104 yards)

#3 Accent Color: Baby Bee Soft Stork Struck (50% Acrylic / 50% Tencil; 3.5 oz skein; Size 4 Medium weight) “Baby’s Blue / #06” – .5 skeins (104 yards)

Tapestry needle

One stitch marker

Scissors

Measures:

35” x 28” before border and 40” x 34” with border

Gauge:

4”: 7 clusters x 15 rows / 25 rows: 7” / 50 rows: 14”

Gauge isn’t very important, however your yarn quantity will vary depending on your gauge.

Directions for Paislee Baby Blanket:

A video tutorial is available at: https://youtu.be/u9vtPzPaAUo and at the top of this pattern.

Body of blanket:

To adjust size, work in multiples of 3 + 2 and add 1 for the base chain

Ch 189 with Main Color and G+ (4.5 mm) hook

1. (RS) Skip 2 ch (counts as 1 sc), *work [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] into next ch, skip 2 ch; rep from * ending 1 sc into last ch, turn. 62 clusters


2. (WS) Ch 2, skip 1st sc and next dc, *work [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] into next ch sp, skip sc and dc; rep from * ending with [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] into last ch sp, skip next sc, 1 hdc into top of last sc in row 1, turn. 62 clusters


3. (RS) Ch 2, skip 1st hdc and next dc, *work [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] into next ch sp, skip sc and dc; rep from * ending with [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] into last ch sp, skip next sc, 1 hdc into top of last hdc in previous row, turn. 62 clusters


4. Rep row three 97 more times or until work measures 28”; Do not fasten off, turn.

Paislee Baby Blanket border from Handmade by Stacy J

Border:

Use H (5.00 mm) hook / Right side is always facing (Do not turn)

1. With right side facing and Main color yarn, ch 1 (does not count as sc), make [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in same corner, *work 1 sc in each st across, in corner [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc], rep * around omitting [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in first corner that has already been worked; then join with sl st to top of first sc; Do not turn.

2. Sl st in corner sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), 1 hdc in same corner sp, *work 1 hdc in each st across, in corner work [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc], rep * around and then join with sl st to 2nd ch, fasten off and weave in ends. Do not turn.

3. With Accent Yarn #3 (Blue), join with standing sc in any corner, ch 2, 1 sc in same corner, *work 1 bphdc around each post across, in corner work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc], rep * around and then join with sl st to top of first sc, do NOT fasten off;  Do not turn.

4. Continuing with Blue yarn, Sl st in corner sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), 1 hdc in same corner sp, *work 1 hdc in each st across, in corner work [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc], rep * around and then join with sl st to 2nd ch, fasten off and weave in ends. Do not turn.

5. With Accent Yarn #1 (Flannel Gray), join with standing sc in any corner, ch 2, 1 sc in same corner, *work 1 bphdc around each post across, in corner work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc], rep * around and then join with sl st to top of first sc, do NOT fasten off;  Do not turn.

6. Continuing with Gray yarn, Sl st in corner sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), 1 hdc in same corner sp, *work 1 hdc in each st across, in corner work [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc], rep * around and then join with sl st to 2nd ch, fasten off and weave in ends. Do not turn.

7. With Accent Yarn #2 (Mint Charm Green), join with standing sc in any corner, ch 2, 1 sc in same corner, *work 1 bphdc around each post across, in corner work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc], rep * around and then join with sl st to top of first sc, do NOT fasten off;  Do not turn.

8. Continuing with Green yarn, Sl st in corner sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), 1 hdc in same corner sp, *work 1 hdc in each st across, in corner work [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc], rep * around and then join with sl st to 2nd ch, fasten off and weave in ends. Do not turn.

9. With Main Color yarn, join with standing sc in any corner, ch 2, 1 sc in same corner, *work 1 bphdc around each post across, in corner work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc], rep * around and then join with sl st to top of first sc, do NOT fasten off;  Do not turn.

10. Continuing with Main Color yarn, Sl st in corner ch sp, ch 3 (counts as dc and ch 1), 1 sc in same corner sp, sk 1 st, *work [1sc, ch 1, 1 dc] in next st, sk 1 st; Rep * around, working [1 sc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 1 sc] in corner ch spaces; in last corner sp, end with [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] and join with sl st to 2nd ch; fasten off and weave in ends. 

If you prefer a pdf with a checklist, please feel free to download and print the link below.

Paislee-Blanket-Pattern

Please tag me on your finished blanket @handmadebystacyj and #handmadebystacyj – I’d love to see it!

This pattern is ©2020 Handmade by Stacy J.  You are welcome and encouraged to gift or sell your projects made from this pattern. However, you may not sell or distribute this pattern, it’s images or content in any way; please direct your followers to the pattern link instead.

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Reversible Sabino Sunrise Hat

Posted on by handmadebystacyj

About the Reversible Sabino Sunrise hat

The Reversible Sabino Sunrise hat is named for the beautiful Sabino Canyon sunrises that we have here in Tucson, AZ. Sabino has been one of my favorite places to go since I was little, so it was fitting to make a hat that is inspired by it. When I was going to Flagstaff with my son, this hat was born because it was a chilly 7 degrees when we were scheduled to visit. Since I don’t really own hats, I decided to design one. And, here we have the Reversible Sabino Sunrise hat!

It’s a very simple hat that works a few increased rounds, 6.75” on the body and then the ribbing. However, when I made it, I realized that the wrong side is just as pretty as the right side. So, I secured the pom pom with a button so that it’s removable, making the hat reversible. This is great for learning how to crochet a hat and is customizable to whatever size you need. Simply measure as you go and then you’ll have the perfect hat!

In the video below, please note that I call the Herringbone Half Double Crochet the Herringbone Double Crochet (sorry about that!).

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. As an affiliate, when you purchase through my links, you allow the company to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more. This allows me to continue making free content. Thank you for your support!

If you prefer an ad free pdf, you can click here to purchase off of Ravelry or Click here for LoveCrafts

Materials needed:

If you’d like a FREE printable pdf template to help measure your hat, please click HERE

Measures:

Fits 22″ head circumference with 2″ negative ease / customizable to fit as you need.

Gauge:

Using H / 5mm hook 13 stitches x 16 rows in single crochet = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm

If you prefer an ad free pdf, you can click here to purchase off of Ravelry or to add it to your favorites or que. Or, you can click here to purchase off of LoveCrafts.

Stitches / Abbreviations used:

Pattern is written in US terms

Ch: Chain

Ea: Each

Hbhdc: Herringbone half double crochet – this stitch is always worked in the back loop and third loop of the stitch starting on round 2: Yarn over, insert hook in back loop and third loop of stitch, draw up a loop and pull through stitch and first loop on hook, yarn over and then pull through remaining 2 loops on hook

Hk: Hook

Lp: Loop

Sc: Single crochet

Sl st: Slip stitch

Rep: Repeat

RS: Right side

Sk: Skip

St(s): Stitch (es)

WS: Wrong side

Yo: Yarn over

Pin of the crocheted Reversible Sabino Sunrise hat from Handmade by Stacy J
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Notes:

  • Hat is worked in the round; until working the brim, do not turn work
  • Ch-2 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch
  • While working in the round, end each round with a slip stitch to the top of the first stitch
  • After round 1, you will always work the Herringbone Half Double Crochet stitch in the back and third loop. As a result of working in those loops the hat becomes reversible.

To customize the fit of the hat:

Measure the circumference of the head of the person that the hat is intended for. Subtract 2” / 5cm from that measurement (this gives a nice, snug fit). Then measure the circumference of the hat as you complete the increase rounds while you work them. Stop increasing when you get to the size needed; proceed to work the body of the hat. For example, my head is 22”, so I stopped increasing when the hat circumference measures 20”.

Directions for the Reversible Sabino Sunrise Hat:

Determine the circumference needed for your hat and then measure throughout the increase rounds. Stop when you get to your desired circumference and move on to the body of the hat.

Increase rounds

Using larger hook, Ch 3

  1. In third ch from hk, work 10 Hbhdc, join with sl st to top of first st, do not turn. Gently pull yarn tail to close up st where 10 Hbhdc were worked.
  2. Ch 2, work 2 Hbhdc (in back loop and third loop here and throughout the pattern) in ea st around, join with sl to top of first st; 20 Hbhdc
  3. Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in next st; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 30 Hbhdc
  4. Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 2 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 40 Hbhdc
  5. Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 3 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 50 Hbhdc
  6. Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 4 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 60 Hbhdc
  7. Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 5 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 70 Hbhdc
  8. Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 6 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 80 Hbhdc
If you need to continue increasing your stitch count to make your hat larger, use the following increase directions:
  1. Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 7 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 90 Hbhdc
  2. Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 8 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 100 Hbhdc

Body of hat

Ch 2, 1 Hbhdc in each st around, join with sl st to top of first st

Repeat body round until hat reaches 6.75” / 17.1 cm or your desired length from beginning of body; do not cut yarn.

Ribbing

This makes a 2.5” / 6.4 cm ribbing – if you would like smaller or larger ribbing, simply add or subtract chain amounts.

Use smaller hook with RS facing and continue as if working in the round

  1. Ch 10, in second ch from hook work 1 sc in the back loop and 1 sc in back loop in ea of remaining 8 chs (9 sc total), 1 sl st in back loop and third loop in ea of the next 2 sts, turn
  2. Sk 2 sl sts, work 1 sc in back loop in ea st across, turn (9 sc)
  3. Ch 1, work 1 sc in back loop in next st and remaining 8 sts, 1 sl st in back loop and third loop of next 2 sts, turn (9 sc total)

Repeat rows 2-3 around the hat.

Sl st in last 2 sts (or 1 st if that’s all you have left), then repeat row 2

Seam together using your preferred method.

Make pom pom and sew it on to the hat using a button to secure the pom pom ends.

Have fun with this and please tag me on social media @handmadebystacyj and #handmadebystacyj – I’d love to see your hat!

This pattern is copyright 2022 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products. I ask that if you sell your final product, please purchase the ad-free pdf, provide your own photographs and credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you for your support!

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Squishtastic Cowl

Posted on by handmadebystacyj

I’m so excited to be sharing with you my latest design: The Squishtastic Cowl!! The name pretty much sums up the texture from this cuddly cowl. It’s crocheted using the Ladders stitch with Red Heart Yarn’s “Unforgettable” yarn and it’s oh-so-squishy!

The Squishtastic Cowl pattern was inspired while making the tutorial for the Ladders stitch and I just couldn’t help myself – it was calling out to be a cowl! This cowl is pretty generously sized, so it could be also be considered a smaller infinity scarf. The pattern is written for adding buttons, but you can choose to simply seam the two edges together if you prefer not to use the buttons.

Disclosure: There are affiliate links in this pattern post. By purchasing through those links, you allow the companies to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more. Thank you for your support!

Red Heart’s “Unforgettable” yarn was just begging to be used for this project; The soft hues of the color palette were calling to me, as well as the softness of the yarn. Plus, it’s a worsted weight (#4) yarn, so the project works up quickly; especially with a size I crochet hook!

The buttons allow for multiple ways to wear the Squishtastic Cowl. You can wear it as it’s made, or you can twist it (once, twice or more) to fit.

Squishtastic Cowl by Handmade by Stacy J being modeled by mannequin

The stitch pattern itself is pretty easy, but I’ve made a video tutorial for the stitch and you can access that by scrolling above or clicking HERE. I found the yarn at Michaels a little while back and it appears that they are still carrying it. However, if you prefer to use something else or order online, I’ll have my affiliate link on the materials section for Mary Maxim (they have a great selection of yarns!).

Pin of Squishtastic Cowl by Handmade by Stacy J
Here’s a pin for your Pinterest board 🙂

Now, let’s get Squishtastic!

If you prefer an ad free pdf, you can click here to purchase off of Ravelry or to add it to your favorites or que 🙂

Gauge

Most yarn labels have the gauge listed for single crochet, but I made a gauge swatch using double crochet.

The yarn label on the “Unforgettable” yarn lists a 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm swatch using single crochet and a J hook as 15 stitches x 18 rows. With the double crochet swatch that I created, I used the I / 5.5 mm hook and worked up 15 stitches x 8 rows to the 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm measurement.

Gauge swatch for Squishtastic cowl from Handmade by Stacy J
 

Gauge isn’t super important with this piece. As long as you have enough yarn to finish the project and you’re happy with the drape, you’ll be good to go.

Materials needed:

Measures:

48″ x 12″ / 122 cm x 30.5 cm Flat & blocked

Stitches / Abbreviations used:

Pattern is written in US terms

BPDC: Back post double crochet

Ch: Chain

Dc: Double crochet

Ea: Each

Fdc: Foundation double crochet

FPDC: Front post double crochet

Hdc: Half double crochet

Rep: Repeat

RS: Right side

Sk: Skip

St (s): Stich (es)

WS: Wrong side

Notes:

  • Ch 2 at beginning of ea row does not count as hdc
  • Cowl can be make wider or narrower by adding or subtracting in increments of 8
  • When working last 3 hdc, sk the last hdc and work final hdc in top of ch-2
  • If you check out the video tutorial, you’ll notice that I don’t work beginning and ending dc on the rows; instead I use hdc – I found that this gives a more even edge

Directions for Squishtastic Cowl:

  1. Work 50 Fdc
  2. RS: Ch 2, turn (does not count as hdc here and throughout); 1 hdc in first st and in ea of the next 2 sts, 1 FPDC around ea of the next 4 sts, * 1 BPDC around ea of the next 4 sts, 1 FPDC around ea of the next 4 sts; rep * across to last 3 sts, 1 hdc in ea of 3 remaining sts. (6 hdc, 24 FPDC, 20 BPDC)
  3. WS: Ch 2, turn; 1 hdc in first st and in ea of the next 2 sts, work 1 BPDC around ea of the next 4 sts, * 1 FPDC around ea of the next 4 sts, 1 BPDC around ea of the next 4 sts; rep * to last 3 sts, 1 hdc in ea of 3 remaining sts. (6 hdc, 20 FPDC, 24 BPDC)
  4. Rep rows 2-3 until piece measures 41″ or desired length.

If you prefer not to use buttons, feel free to fasten off after completing a row 3 repeat and seam the ends together.

Buttonhole

(If you prefer a tighter fit for the button, feel free to omit the ch-2 in the first row. Instead, ch 1 or omit the chain all together. You can also purchase larger buttons, as this is a little bit of a loose fit)

  1. RS: Ch 2, turn; 1 hdc in first st and in ea of next 2 sts, *1 FPDC around next st, ch 2, sk 2, 1 FPDC around next st, 1 BPDC around ea of next 4 sts; rep * across to last 3 sts, omitting the last 4 BPDC, 1 hdc in ea of remaining 3 sts. (6 hdc, 20 BPDC, 12 FPDC, 6 ch-2 spaces)
  2. WS: Ch 2, turn; 1 hdc in first st and in ea of next 2 sts, *1 BPDC around next st, 1 dc in ea of next 2 ch, 1 BPDC around next st, 1 FPDC around ea of next 4 sts; rep * across to last 3 sts, omitting the last FPDC section, 1 hdc in ea of remaining 3 sts. (6 hdc, 12 BPDC, 12 dc, 20 FPDC)
  3. Ch 2, turn; 1 hdc in first st and in ea of the next 2 sts, 1 FPDC around ea of the next 4 sts, * 1 BPDC around ea of the next 4 sts, 1 FPDC around ea of the next 4 sts; rep * across to last 3 sts, 1 hdc in ea of 3 remaining sts. (6 hdc, 24 FPDC, 20 BPDC)
  4. Ch 2, turn; 1 hdc in first st and in ea st across; Fasten off.

Styling

No Twist
One Twist
Two Twists

Above you’ll see three ways that I styled this lovely squishtastic cowl. The left side image has no twist, the middle image has one twist and the image on the right has two twists. Have fun with this and please tag me on social media @handmadebystacyj and #handmadebystacyj. I’d love to see how you wear yours!

This pattern is copyright 2022 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products. I just ask that if you sell your final product, please purchase the ad-free pdf and please credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you for your support!

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Spring Ripples Baby Blanket

Posted on by handmadebystacyj

The Spring Ripples Baby Blanket is a super quick and easy blanket to crochet! It uses two strands of DK weight yarn held together and worked up for me in a weekend. It also has a pattern that is very easy to remember.

The yarn is extremely affordable through LoveCrafts and would be a great stash buster, as the contrasting colors only use about half a skein each. Just grab a main color and some fun contrasting colors and you can have a blanket in less time that it takes to decide on the colors! 

This is an easy pattern that only uses a variation of double crochet, so a beginner could tackle this pretty easily. The hook size used makes this a dense and squishy blanket; if you would like yours a little more drapey, try using a larger hook; Some of my testers used worsted weight yarn with a K hook. Just keep in mind that your yarn usage will vary.

 

Difficulty level:

Easy

Stitches & Abbreviations Used:

Written in US Terms

Beg: Beginning

CC: Contrasting Color

Ch: Chain

Dc: Double Crochet 

Dc3tog: Double Crochet 3 Together – Worked over 3 sts [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops] 3 times (4 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through all loops on hook —2 stitches decreased

MC: Main Color

Pc: Popcorn (When working Pc, do NOT ch 1 to close the st) Work 5 double crochet (dc) stitches in the same stitch, drop the loop from your hook, insert your hook from front to back under the top 2 loops of the first double crochet of the group, grab the dropped loop with your hook, as well as the dropped CC and pull it through the stitch, do NOT ch 1.

Rep: Repeat

Sk: Skip

Sl St: Slip Stitch

St (s): Stitch (es)

Tch: Turning Chain

 

Pin of Spring Ripples Baby Blanket crocheted by Handmade by Stacy J
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Disclosure: If you choose to purchase your yarn through my affiliate links, please know that you will be allowing the companies to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more. This allows me to continue creating free content. Thank you for your support!!

Materials:

Size I (5.5mm) Crochet Hook

Hayfield Bonus DK Yarn 100g / 3.5 oz; 100% Acrylic; 280 m / 306 yds  in colors:

    (MC) Color #993 – Aran:  4.5 skeins / 450g; 1377 yds / 1260 m

    (CC-A) Color #957 Primrose: 0.5 skein / 50g; 153 yds / 140 m

    (CC-B) Color #585 Petal Pink: 0.5 skein / 50g; 153 yds / 140 m

    (CC-C) Color #959 Lilac Purple: 0.5 skein / 50g; 153 yds / 140 m

    (CC-D) Color #730 Ice Blue: 0.5 skein / 50g; 153 yds / 140 m

    (CC-E) Color #956 Mint Green: 0.5 skein / 50g; 153 yds / 140 m

Tapestry Needle and Scissors

Measures:

29” x 35” (73.7 cm x 88.9 cm) without fringe

Gauge:

Working Dc with two strands of yarn held together, 12 sts x 7 rows = 4”

Gauge isn’t very important, however your yarn quantity will vary depending on your gauge.

Notes: 

  • Two strands are held together at all times, with MC being one strand throughout, except for when making the Popcorn stitch.
  • Pattern may be made wider by adding stitches in multiples of 14 (+2 for base chain)
  • Stitch count of 98 sts will be the same on every row

To purchase an ad-free pdf that includes a chart, row checklist, gift tag and care instruction tag (if you used the recommended yarn) of this pattern, please visit my Ravelry or Etsy Shop.

Spring_Ripples_Baby_Blanket_Pattern collage from Handmade by Stacy J

Directions:

A video tutorial is available at: https://youtu.be/4rGyjrTB-78 and at the top of this pattern.

With two strands of MC, ch 100

1 (RS): Sk 2 ch (counts as dc), 2 dc in next ch, *1 dc in ea of next 3 ch, [over next 3 ch, work dc3tog] twice, 1 dc in each of next 3 ch, [3 dc in next ch] twice; rep * across ending with 3 dc in last ch, turn.

2 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same st, *1 dc in ea of next 3 sts, [over next 3 sts, work dc3tog] twice, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, [3 dc in next st] twice; rep * across ending with 3 dc in tch; cut one strand of MC and join Color A; turn.

3 (RS): [On this row, you will use only the CC for the Popcorn stitch and then the 2 strands throughout the rest of the row]  Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same st, *1 dc in next st, using only CC work 1 pc in next st, using both strands work 1 dc in next st, [work dc3tog] twice, 1 dc in next st, using only CC work 1 pc in next st, using both strands work 1 dc in next st, [3 dc in next st] twice; rep * across ending with 3 dc in tch; turn.

4 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same st, *1 dc in ea of next 3 sts, [work dc3tog] twice, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, [3 dc in next st] twice; rep * across ending with 3 dc in tch; turn.

Continue repeating rows 3 and 4 in the following sequence:
  • With MC and CC-A: Rep rows 3 and 4 twice more
  • With MC: Rep rows 3 and 4 once
  • With MC and CC-B: Rep rows 3 and 4 three times 
  • With MC: Rep rows 3 and 4 once
  • With MC and CC-C: Rep rows 3 and 4 three times
  • With MC: Rep rows 3 and 4 once
  • With MC and CC-D: Rep rows 3 and 4 three times
  • With MC: Rep rows 3 and 4 once
  • With MC and CC-E: Rep rows 3 and 4 three times

Final two rows will be using MC strands held together & will not involve Popcorn sts

Repeat row 4 twice; do not fasten off, turn

 

Close Up.jpg

Border (RS facing):

  1. Working along the top edge, repeat row 4; do not turn, instead rotate the blanket so that you’re working down the long edge.
  2. Work 1 more dc where the last 3 dc were just made, work dc in next st and evenly down the side; do not turn, rotate blanket so that you’re working along the lower edge.
  3. (When working this section, it’s helpful to put a stitch marker where the first “point” of the blanket is, that way if you’re off count at all, you can adjust by adding or decreasing a dc as needed) Over the next 3 sts, work dc3tog, 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts (you should be at the point of the pattern), *[work 3 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, [work dc3tog] twice, 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts; rep * to the last “point” of the bottom edge. Work [3 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts.
  4. Work dc in first st (where the last of the dc3tog is) and evenly down the side ending with a sl st in the top of beg ch-3.

Fasten off and weave in all ends. This is when I wash and block the blanket, prior to adding the fringe.

 

Fringe:

Cut 4 strands that are 18” long for each point of the blanket on the shorter edges. I used 2 strands of the MC and 2 strands of a contrasting color, but feel free to get creative. Attach 4 strands to each point; then measure the fringe to 6” and trim.

A huge thank you to my wonderful testers! 

Please show them some love on Instagram @radarandmomma, @gypsyinrhapsody, @designsbydali and @restless_philomath

Please tag me on your finished blanket @handmadebystacyj and #handmadebystacyj – I’d love to see it!

This pattern is ©2021 Handmade by Stacy J.  You are welcome and encouraged to gift or sell your projects made from this pattern. However, you may not sell or distribute this pattern, it’s images or content in any way; please direct your followers to the pattern link instead.

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Double Crochet Square Motif

Posted on by handmadebystacyj

The Double Crochet Square Motif is a very simple crochet motif pattern; one of the first that I learned when I was little and my mom was teaching me how to crochet. Join me as I show you step by step how to create this beautiful square. Written directions are below, as well as a video.

The crochet hook used is my absolute favorite hook. It’s the Furls Odyssey in Turquoise; however, they now have a bunch of colors that I love! The yarn is also lovely! It’s a super soft, inexpensive and absolutely lovely yarn that I just love, as well (Oh, and it rarely splits!). So much so that I became an affiliate with the Furls company and LoveCrafts. What that means for you is that when you purchase using my link, you allow the company to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more. This helps me to continue making free tutorials and patterns. Here is the link if you’d like to check them out for yourself:

Furls Crochet Hook

Yarn: Paintbox Simply DK

Image of Furls Crochet hooks

Difficulty level:

Easy

Stitches used:

Ch: Chain

DC: Double Crochet

Sl St: Slip Stitch

 

Notes:

You can also chose to ch 2 in the corners instead of 4 if you prefer a more closed look.

Double Crochet Motif Pin from Handmade by Stacy J
Here’s a pin for your Pinterest board 🙂

Directions

Ch 4, join to first ch with a sl st.

Round 1: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch-2), work 3 dc in ring, ch 2, (work 3 dc in ring, ch 2) two times, work 2 dc, join with sl st to 3rd ch of the ch-5.

Round 2: Sl st into chain space, ch 7 (counts as dc and ch-4), work 2 dc in same ch sp, *1 dc in ea of the sts across, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) in next ch-sp; rep from * two more times, work 1 dc in ea of sts across and 1 dc in same space as where the ch-7 is located, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch-7.

To grow your square, continue to repeat round 2 by following the pattern until you reach your desired size; the double crochets between the corner chain spaces will always be worked as an odd number (for example, row 2 has 3 dc, row 3 has 7 dc, row 4 will have 11 dc, etc…)

I hope you found this tutorial helpful. As always, I’m very grateful to have your support on our yarny adventures. Thank you!

Stacy J

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Cozy Tablet Tote

Posted on by handmadebystacyj

The Cozy Tablet Tote is a stylish way to store your tablet. It’s easily modified to fit any of your gizmos that may need a tote. This is designed to be a quick and easy gift to make. Enjoy!

 

Disclosure: There are links on this post that are for companies that I am an affiliate for. By clicking on and purchasing from these links, you are allowing the company to pay me a small commission, while not costing you a penny more. Thank you for your support.

 

Here’s a pin for your Pinterest board

Difficulty level:

Easy-ish

Stitches used:

Written in US Terms

Ch (Chain)

Dc (Double Crochet)

FpDc (Front Post Double Crochet)

FpSc (Front Post Single Crochet)

FSc (Foundation Single Crochet)

Standing Sc (Standing Single Crochet)

Sc (Single Crochet)

Sc2tog (Single Crochet 2 Together)

Sc3tog (Single Crochet 3 together)  

 

Materials Needed:

Red Heart (100% Acrylic; 100g / 7 oz; 333m / 364 yd; Worsted Size 4 yarn) 

Color A – Dusty Grey: 56 yards

B – Scuba: 130 yards

C – White: 37 yards

Crochet Hook size 4.5mm / G+ – My favorite to use is Furls Odyssey; You can get yours here!

2 Lockable stitch markers (Optional)  I use these for indicating where my first and last stitches made are located and this helps for straight edges

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Button (I used a .75” button), sewing needle and sewing thread

To purchase an ad-free pdf of this pattern, please visit my Ravelry Store. 

 

Gauge:

14 sts x 15 rows = 4” using sc

Measures:

8”x10” without flap, 8” x 14” with flap opened

Notes: 

• To adjust width, you can add or subtract stitches in mulitples of 2; to adjust height, add or omit rows of the “Alpine Section” as desired.

• Ch 1 at the beginning of row does not count as a stitch

• Yarn tails should be left long (approximately 12” – 18”) as you finish each section for ease of sewing the panels together. 

• Using a stitch marker at the first sc made on any sc rows and in the second ch of the ch-2 on dc rows to help keep your edges straight & not lose track of where the ch-2 on some rows are.

• Tote’s second panel is worked by joining in your FSC row, therefore eliminating some seaming; if you prefer to work 2 separate panels, you can do so by working panel 1 two times.

 

Directions for Cozy Tablet Tote:

Panel 1

1: With MC, make 30 FSc, then turn

2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), work 1 sc in same st and in each st across, then turn. (30 sc)

3 – 7: Repeat row 2 for 5 more rows with Color A (Grey)

8: Repeat row 2 with Color C (White)

 

Alpine Section Directions

Notes:

• This panel always starts on the Wrong Side

• While drawing up first loop of FpDc, bring the loop to the height of the current dc to avoid puckering or pulling on this row (it should lay flat)

• As you work a FpDc, be sure NOT to work the st behind it, as you’ve already worked that stitch, only 2 rows below.

Directions:

With Color B (Scuba)

9: WS: Ch 1, work 1 sc in same st in ea st across, then turn. (30 sc)

10: RS: Ch 2 (counts as dc), 1 dc in next st & in ea st across, then turn. (30 dc)

11: WS: Ch 1, work 1 sc in same st in ea st across, (being sure not to miss the top of the ch-2), then turn. (30 sc)

12: RS: Ch 2 (counts as dc), 1 dc in ea of next 3 sts, *FpDc around next dc post 2 rows below, (the 5th post from the edge), 1 dc in next st; rep * until 2 st remains, 1 dc in ea of last 2 sts, turn. (12 FpDc, 18 dc)

13: WS: Rep row 11

14: RS: Ch 2 (counts as dc), 1 dc in ea of next 4 sts *FpDc around next dc post 2 rows below, 1 dc in next st; rep * until 3 sts rem, 1 dc in ea of last 3 sts, turn. (11 FpDc, 19 dc)

15: WS: Rep row 11

16: RS: Rep row 12

17: WS: Rep row 11, switch to Color C (White) and then break color B (Scuba) leaving a longer yarn tail for seaming later.

 

Single Crochet Transition

18: RS: With Color C, rep row 9, then switch to Color A (Grey) and break Color C.

19: WS: With Color A, rep row 9, then switch to Color C (White) and break Color A.    

20: RS: With Color C, rep row 9, then switch to Color B (Scuba), and break Color C.

 

Alpine Section 2

Rows 21 – 29: With Color B (Scuba), repeat rows 9-17, then switch to color C (White) and break Color B

Row 30: With Color C, rep row 18, then switch to Color A (Grey) and break Color C.

Rows 31 – 37: With Color A, rep row 2, then fasten off.

 

Panel 2

This panel will start by joining in the original foundation made at the beg of Panel 1.

With Panel 1 upside down and wrong side facing, join Color A in right corner with standing sc and then work 1 sc in ea st across, turn. (30 sc)

 

Repeat Panel 1 starting with row 2 and fasten off when completed.

 

Assembly

With the right sides facing you, fold your panel in half and make sure all the stripes line up correctly.

Then, unfold the panel and fold it in half with the right sides facing each other (the wrong side should be showing on the exterior now.

While sandwiching the piece, use your yarn tails to seam the pouch together on the wrong side; For simplicity, you can loosely tie the yarn tails that meet up together or use stitch markers to hold it all in place.

Use a tapestry needle to sew the panel sides together and then turn the pouch right side out.

Whew – you’ve completed the biggest section; And, now it’ll all be easy peasy from here on out.

Top Border

With Color C (White), join in a seamed corner stitch with a standing sc (Insert stitch marker in top of this stitch for ease of joining), then work 1 sc in each st around top of pouch, joining with sl st to top of standing sc (where the sm is), fasten off and weave in ends. Depending on how you seamed your pouch, you should have approximately 60 sc.

If you prefer to sew in a zipper, this would be a good time to do so. And, if you prefer not to do the closure flap, then your pouch is finished!

 

Closure Flap

Look at your pouch and then decide which side will be the front and which side will be the back.

With the front side facing you, looking at the WS of the back (Basically, it’s open and your looking inside), place a sm in the top of the middle of the back where the Top Border is.

Then, count 12 sts to the left (including the st that has the sm) and place a sm or a scrap piece of yarn around the post of the st one row below the Top Border.

Count 12 sts to the right (including the st that has the sm) and place another sm or scrap piece of yarn around the post of the st one row below the Top Border.

Remove the middle sm, because your flap will be worked between where the left and right stitch markers are.

Take another look to see if your happy with that placement. If it doesn’t seem centered, you can shift it over a stitch or two if you like as long as you make sure that you shift both stitch markers; there will be 23 sts worked.

Turn pouch wrong side out, because you will be working this section flat.

Closure Flap Stitch Directions:

1: With Color A, join with standing FpSc to post with sm, work 1 FpSc in ea of the next 22 sts, turn and then remove stitch markers. (23 sc)

2 – 4: Ch 1, work 1 sc in ea st across, turn.

5: Ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc in ea st to the last 2, sc2tog, turn. (21 sc)

Rep row 5 nine times – you will end up with a total of 3 sc left.

Ch 1, sc3tog, fasten off.

For these last rows, you will only be working the two sides of the flap that fold over (not the part that connects to the body of the tote). 

• Color B and RS facing: join with standing sc to top corner where the flap begins at the body of the pouch, then work 1 sc in ea st down the edge, working (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in corner where the sc3tog is located, and continue to work 1 sc in ea st on edge, joining to sc that is located on tote body; Fasten off.

• With Color C: Rep row 16, except in ch-2 sp work (1 dc, *ch5, 1dc), then fasten off. (You may need to add or subtract the ch quantity to adjust for your button size; Make sure that this fits snuggly and isn’t too loose or too tight in order to secure the button.)

• Determine button placement and then sew on button to the pouch.

• Weave in all ends and enjoy! 

I’d love to see yours – please take pictures, tag me on social media with #handmadebystacyj and link to the Ravelry project page!

Stacy J

This pattern is copyright 2020 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products; If you sell your final product, I just ask that you please purchase the ad-free pdf and credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you!

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Granny Square

Posted on by handmadebystacyj

Traditional crochet method

The traditional Granny Square is a pattern that many crocheters learn as their first motif. My mom taught me how to create this simple granny square pattern when I was a little girl. It‘s a super simple stitch pattern that only uses a couple of stitches. The written directions are below, as well as a video tutorial above. If you haven’t already, please subscribe to my YouTube channel 🙂

Disclosure: This post may contain links for companies that I am an affliate for. By purchasing through those links you continue to allow me to provide free tutorials by allowing the company to pay me a small commission. As a result, your purchase allows me to continue making free content. Thank you for your support!

Difficulty level:

Easy

Terms and Abbreviations used:

Directions are written. using US terminology

Ch: Chain

Dc: Double Crochet

Rep: Repeat

Sk: Skip

Sl st: Slip Stitch

Sp (s): Space (s)

St (s): Stitch (es)

Pin of traditional granny square from Handmade by Stacy J
Here’s a pin for your Pinterest board 🙂

Materials Needed:

Paintbox Yarns – Simply DK (100% Acrylic; 100g / 3.5oz; Light #3 weight); Color #131 Seafoam Blue & Color #102 Champagne White

Crochet Hook Size G (4 mm) If you love Furls, here’s a link 🙂

Note: If you are using two colors, join with a sl st in any ch-2 corner space on each row.

If you are only using one color, do not fasten off your yarn. Instead, sl st to the corner sp.

Directions for traditional Granny Square

This is worked in the round, do not turn your square when moving on to the next round.

Ch 4, join to first ch with a sl st.

1: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch-2), work 3 dc in ring, ch 2, (work 3 dc in ring, ch 2) two times, work 2 dc, then join with sl st to 3rd ch of the ch-5.

2: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch-2), work 3 dc in same ch sp, *ch 1, sk 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * two more times, ch 1, sk 3 dc, work 2 dc in same sp as where the ch-5 is located, then join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch-5.

3: Ch 5 (counts as dc & ch-2), work 3 dc in same ch sp, *ch 1, sk 3 dc, work 3 dc into next sp, ch 1, sk 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp; rep * two more times; ch 1, sk 3 dc, work 3 dc into next sp, ch 1, sk 3 dc, work 2 dc in same sp where the ch-5 is located, then join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch-5.

4: Ch 5 (counts as dc & ch-2), work 3 dc in same ch sp, *ch 1, sk 3 dc, work 3 dc into next sp, ch 1, sk 3 dc, work 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 sp; rep * two more times; ch 1, sk 3 dc, work 3 dc into next sp, ch 1, sk 3 dc, work 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, sk 3 dc, work 2 dc in same sp where the ch-5 is located, then join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch-5. Fasten off.

To grow your granny square

Continue repeating round 4 by following the pattern until you reach your desired size.

If you prefer a printable pdf, there is one below for you to download.

   Granny-Square-Tutorial

I thank you so much for joining me and supporting me on our yarny adventures. Please remember to tag me @handmadebystacyj with your makes -I love to see them!

Stacy J

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Learn to Crochet – Dishcloth

Posted on by handmadebystacyj

The Learn to Crochet – Dishcloth written pattern can be used with the video tutorial on the “Handmade by Stacy J” YouTube channel. It‘s a beginner friendly pattern that uses only 2 stitches: single crochet & double crochet. 

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. As an affiliate, when you purchase through my links, you allow the company to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more. This allows me to continue making free content. Thank you for your support!

Materials needed:

  • Lily Sugar‘n Cream (100% Cotton, Medium 4 weight) 75 yards in the color Sage Green
  • Size H / 5mm Crochet hook
  • 2.5” / 65mm pom pom maker
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry needle

Measures:

8.75“ x 8.5“ / each 4 row pattern repeat measures 1.5“ tall

 

Pattern is written in US terms

Stitches / Abbreviations used:

Chain (ch)

Single Crochet (sc)

Double crochet (dc) 

Here’s a pin for your Pinterest board 🙂

Notes:

  • Ch 1 at the beginning of a sc row does not count as a stitch.

Directions for the Learn to Crochet – Dishcloth:

1: Chain 31. In second ch from hook, work 1 sc; work 1 sc in ea ch across, turn (30 sc).

2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in ea stitch across, turn (30 sc).

3 & 4: Repeat step 2 twice more.

5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 1 dc in ea st across, turn (30 dc).

Repeat steps 2 – 5 four more times

Repeat step 2 four more times.

Border:

Ch 1, *work 1 sc in ea st working across top row; work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in corner st, work 1 sc in each row across edge; work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in corner st; Rep * to the last corner. Work 1 sc, ch 1 in stitch where first sc is located, join with slip stitch to top of first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Alternate Border:

As seen on the video tutorial

Work border as instructed above, but when working on the edge that has the rows, instead of working 1 sc in each row across, work

1 sc in ea sc row and 1 dc in the 2nd stitch down on the dc rows. 

If you’d like to download a pdf, please click on the file below.

 LTC_Dishcloth-Tutorial

Have fun with this and please tag me on social media @handmadebystacyj and #handmadebystacyj – I’d love to see your makes!

This pattern is copyright 2022 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products. I ask that if you sell your final product, please credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you for your support!

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Patterns on Ravelry • Inspiration on Pinterest

Little Heart

Posted on by handmadebystacyj

This Little Heart pattern is super quick, very easy and uses very little yarn. It works with my Valentine’s cup cozy project that you can find HERE. Also, the Little heart makes a great little accent as a gift some someone you love.

When I designed this, my mom ended up making about 30 of them for residents of a nursing home. From what I heard, they loved them!

Disclosure: There are affiliate links in most of my posts. By purchasing through those links, you allow the companies to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more. Thank you for your support!

The stitch pattern itself is pretty easy, but I’ve made a video tutorial and you can access that by clicking the box above or clicking HERE.

Little Hearts pin of crocheted pattern from Handmade by Stacy J
Here’s a pin for your Pinterest board 🙂

Stitches / Abbreviations used:

Pattern is written in US terms

ch: chain 

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

tr: treble crochet

htr: half treble crochet

Directions for Little Heart:

1. Make the magic ring and ch 3

2. In magic ring, work 3 treble, 3 dc, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 half treble, 3 dc, 3 tr,  ch 3

3. Tighten up the magic ring a little, sc into ring, pull circle tight; fasten off leaving about 6” for weaving in ends.

This pattern is copyright 2020 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products. I just ask that if you sell your final product, please credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you for your support!

Subscribe on YouTube • Join me on Facebook • Follow on Instagram • Patterns on Ravelry • Inspiration on Pinterest

Valentine’s Cup Cozy

Posted on by handmadebystacyj

This Valentine’s Cup Cozy works up in almost no time and requires very little yarn. If you’re looking for a quick and easy gift to make for Valentine’s Day, this might be the perfect gift. It’s a great scrap project or something that would be fun to make for your mom, girlfriend, child’s teacher, whoever you think would enjoy a Valentine’s cup cozy!

Disclosure: There are affiliate links in this pattern post. By purchasing through those links, you allow the companies to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more. Thank you for your support!

The stitch pattern itself is pretty easy, but I’ve made a video tutorial for the heart motif and you can access that by clicking the box above or clicking HERE.

Here’s a pin for your Pinterest board 🙂

Gauge isn’t super important with this piece, since you can measure as you go.

Materials needed:

Terms and Abbreviations used:

Pattern is written in US terms

Ch: Chain

Crab Stitch: work sc in stitch to the right instead of the left (this creates a rope looking effect)

Hdc: Half Double Crochet

Rep: Repeat

Sc: Single Crochet

Sc2tog: Single Crochet 2 Together

Sp (s): Space (s)

St (s): Stitch (es)

 

Notes:

  • Always end with sc when making cozy
  • Ch 2 at beg counts as (sc, ch 1)
  • You can also make this as a bookmark by stopping at Cozy row 3 when you get to the length that you like, then work Row 9 for the border.
  • Width can easily be adjusted by adding in increments of 2 (just make sure that your starting ch is an odd number)

Directions for Valentine’s Cup Cozy:

Make heart 

(see video tutorial above or written directions at this link)

Cup Cozy

1. With White, ch 13

2. Insert hook in third ch from hook, *sc, ch 1; rep * across, ending with sc in last ch; turn

3. Rep row 2 until Cozy wraps around your favorite cup

4. Ch 1, sc2tog with first sc and ch sp, sc across until only ch sp and last sc remain, sc2tog, turn

5. Rep row 4 two more times

6. Ch 1, sc across

7. Ch 7, sc in last st, turn

8. Ch 1, work 1 hdc in first st one row below (this helps to make a smooth look in the transition rows), work 7 sc in ch sp, 1 hdc in last st one row below; fasten off and weave in ends.

9. With Contrasting Color, join with sl st in beginning corner with RS facing, ch 1, work Crab Stitch around the Cozy; join with sl st to first st; fasten off and weave in ends

10. Sew heart on far end from button loop sewing only in the center so that heart works like a button.

11. Wrap and secure around your cup and enjoy your Cozy!!

This pattern is copyright 2020 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products. I just ask that if you sell your final product, please credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you for your support!

Subscribe on YouTube • Join me on Facebook • Follow on Instagram

Patterns on Ravelry • Inspiration on Pinterest