The Textured C2C Square & Dishcloth was inspired by my Birthday Sorbet Baby Blanket design. It’s such a fun and easy pattern to work with that I thought a smaller version would be perfect for the Unraveled Mitten 2023 Blanket CAL. It offers a lot of texture and works up quickly. If you’d like to make the dishcloth, simply follow the pattern, but use the smaller hook and lighter, cotton yarn. My testers rated this pattern as “Easy”, making it the perfect project to make as you watch your favorite program or listen to your favorite podcast. On a side note, I want to extend a big “Thank You!” to all of my testers that helped with this design!
The 2023 Stash-busting Afghan Mystery Crochet Along with Unraveled Mitten is a year-long crochet along that involves 20 different squares. Each square is 12″ x 12″ and is designed by a different participating designer. The squares are released every other week throughout 2023, with the last square being released in October (giving you plenty of time to finish your blanket to gift it!). To see the other blocks that have been released (there are some amazing blocks – you will want to check them out!), please visit: https://theunraveledmitten.com/2023/01/05/2023-stash-busting-crochet-along/
If you prefer a printable pdf that includes printable gift tags for gifting you can purchase directly through me and save 10% off of what the price will be when the pattern is available on Ravelry (Valid for US residents only)!
Please note that due to this being a digital download, all sales are final and no refunds will be given. Thank you for your support!
Today I am so excited to share with you the FREE crochet pattern for the Sunny Skies Infinity Scarf! The Sunny Skies Infinity Scarf was inspired by a YouTube tutorial I did for the Cable Crochet Stitch. I recently started getting requests for a pattern using that stitch, so the inspiration for this scarf was born. When I felt how lovely the King Cole Drifter 4ply yarn is, the yarn was calling to be used for this particular scarf.
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. That means that I may receive compensation when you purchase through my links at no additional cost to you. I am a King Cole Brand Ambassador and this post is part of our ongoing collaboration.
Here’s a pin for your Pinterest board 🙂
About the yarn
The yarn used King Cole Drifter 4 ply. This yarn is a #2 / fingering weight yarn and is oh-so-lovely to work with; It’s light and airy and works up wonderfully. It’s a blend of 69% Premium Acrylic, 25% Cotton, 6% Wool and contains approximately 437 yards / 400 metres. This yarn can be machine washed on gentle in cool water and machine dried on the cool setting. In working with it, I found very few knots and it’s so soft on my hands.
This pattern is an EASY project. Therefore, a beginner could try this out, too. I showed a girlfriend that just recently started crocheting how to do this project, and she breezed through it in just a few days.
This free crochet pattern has been tested – thank you to all my lovely testers!
If you prefer a printable pdf that includes printable gift tags for gifting you can purchase through Ravelry (or add to your favorites or que) or you can purchase directly through me and save 10% (Valid for US residents only)!
Please note that due to this being a digital download, all sales are final and no refunds will be given. Thank you for your support!
Materials:
King Cole “Drifter” 4ply (69% Premium Acrylic, 25% Cotton, 6% Wool; 437 yds / 400 m; 100g; #2 Fingering / 4 ply weight) yarn in color Honeysuckle – 1 skein or 437 yard of any other #2 Fingering / 4 ply yarn)
6 Locking stitch markers or scrap pieces of yarn (optional – can be used to mark the first sc and for help with seaming placement)
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Measures:
58” / 147 cm circumference x 9.5” / 24 cm
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Gauge:
2 pattern repeats = 4” / 10 cm – gauge is not critical in this project, but will affect yarn usage
Stitches & Abbreviations Used
(Pattern is written in US terms):
Ch (s): Chain (s)
Ea: Each
Hk: Hook
Rep: Repeat
Rem: Remaining
Rs: Right side
Sc: Single crochet
Sk: Skip
Sl st: Slip stitch
St (s): Stitch (es)
Ws: Wrong side
Yo: Yarn over
X: Times (example: 2x = 2 times)
Special stitches used
TRTR: Triple treble crochet – Yo 4 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo and draw up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops) 5 times
QUADTR: Quadruple treble crochet – Yo 5 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo and draw up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops) 6 times
Notes:
Ch-1 at the beginning of WS row does not count as a stitch
When working the WS row, sc a little looser than you normally would (this helps keep with the lacy effect)
When working the sl st during seaming, sl st loosely to ensure a smooth seam
To make the scarf wider or narrower, add or subtract your beginning chain in increments of 6
To view the tutorial on how to crochet the Sunny Skies Infinity Scarf, please click on the video link directly above or visit my YouTube channel at: https://youtu.be/2Wy5X_NnTBs
Directions for Sunny Skies Infinity Scarf:
Loosely chain 36
Row 1: WS: Ch 1, work 1 sc in second ch from hk and in ea ch across; turn. (36 sc)
Row 2: RS: Ch 6 (counts as first TRTR), work 1 TRTR in ea of next 2 sts, *sk next 3 sts, work 1 QUADTR in ea of next 3 sts, working in front of 3 QUADTR just made and starting with the first skipped st, work 1 QUADTR in ea of the 3 skipped sts; rep * across until only 3 sts rem, 1 TRTR in ea of the last 3 sts; turn. (6 TRTR, 5 cables that consist of 6 QUADTR each)
Repeat rows 1 – 2 until 58” / 147 cm, desired length or approximately 3 yds / 2.75m of yarn remain, then ch1.
Seaming
With right sides facing, use stitch markers or scrap yarn to mark stitches intermittently through both sides in order to align all stitches prior to seaming.
Sl st through the first st of each side to join and continue joining the sides with sl sts until you reach the end of the scarf. Fasten off, then weave in your ends and enjoy!
If you enjoyed this project, here are a few more crochet designs that you might enjoy. Click the image below to be directed to the free crochet pattern.
Please take pictures and tag me at #handmadebystacyj and @handmadebystacyj
This free crochet pattern is copyright 2023 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products; If you sell your final product, I just ask that you please purchase the ad-free pdf and credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you!
Today I am so excited to share with you the FREE crochet pattern for the Birthday Sorbet Baby Blanket!
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. As an affiliate, when you purchase through my links, you allow the company to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more, which allows me to continue making free content.
About the Birthday Sorbet Baby Blanket
The Birthday Sorbet Baby Blanket was inspired by a friend of mine that requested a fun, happy blanket for a new baby. He gave me complete creative freedom to create whatever called to me. The idea of a colorful C2C blanket with some added texture was all I could think about. So, the Birthday Sorbet Baby Blanket was born!
My testers rated this pattern as “Easy”, making it the perfect project to make as you watch your favorite program or listen to your favorite podcast.
On a side note, I want to extend a big “Thank You!” to all of my testers that helped with this design!
Here’s a pin for you Pinterest board
About the yarn
The yarn used was provided to me from Mary Maxim. It’s the Mary Maxim “Mellowspun DK”. This is a DK / #3 light weight yarn that is 100% acrylic. It works up beautifully, is machine washable and there are LOTS of colors to choose from.
If you prefer a printable pdf that includes higher resolution charts, 16 point font for easier reading and printable gift tags for gifting, you can purchase through Ravelry (or add to your favorites or que) or you can purchase directly through me and save 10% (Valid for US residents only).
Due to this being a digital download, no refunds will be given. Thank you!
Locking stitch marker or scrap piece of yarn for marking stitches (optional)
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Measures:
Body (C2C portion): 34” x 34” / 86 cm x 86 cm
Final Size: 40” x 40” / 102 cm x 102 cm
Difficulty Level:
Easy-ish
Gauge:
C2C pattern 6 blocks x 6 blocks: 4.25” / 10.8 cm (Gauge isn’t critical in this project, but will affect yarn usage)
Stitches & Abbreviations Used
(Pattern is written in US terms):
3dc Cluster: Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, insert hook in same st, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, insert hook in same st, yo, draw through 2 loops, yo, draw through all 4 loops left on hook; leaving st behind cluster unworked
Bpdc: Back post double crochet – Yo and insert hook from back to front around post of indicated stitch, yo and draw yarn around post of st, yo and draw through two loops, yo and draw through remaining 2 loops
C2C: Corner to corner
Ch(s): Chain(s)
Dc: Double crochet
Fpdc: Front post double crochet – Yo and insert hook from front to back around post of indicated stitch, yo and draw yarn around post of st, yo and draw through two loops, yo and draw through remaining 2 loops; leaving the st behind unworked
Hdc: Half double crochet
Pop: Popcorn – 5 dc in same st, pull out hook and insert from front to back under top 2 loops of first dc, insert hook in dropped loop and pull through stitch, ch 1 to close stitch
Rep: Repeat
RS: Right Side
Sc: Single crochet
Sl st: Slip Stitch
Sp: Space
St(s): Stitch(es)
Standing hdc: Standing half double crochet – With slip knot on hook, yo, insert hook in sp indicated, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook
Standing sc: Standing single crochet – With slip knot on hook, insert hook in sp indicated, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook
WS: Wrong side
Yo: Yarn over
If you prefer a printable pdf that includes higher resolution charts, 16 point font for easier reading and printable gift tags for gifting, you can purchase through Ravelry (or add to your favorites or que) or you can purchase directly through me and save 10% (Valid for US residents only).
Due to this being a digital download, no refunds will be given. Thank you!
Directions for Body of Birthday Sorbet Baby Blanket:
Notes:
Before beginning your blanket, please print a chart at the end of the pattern to help with color placement – there is a color chart available, as well as a greyscale chart that you can use to customize your own color choices.
Total amount of C2C blocks on each side is 45; You can easily adjust the size by adding or subtracting more rows. However, yarn quantities will vary, as will the placement of some border stitches.
An easy way to help remember placement is that the CC rows always contain popcorns and the MC rows are only C2C
To view the tutorial on how to crochet the body of the Birthday Sorbet blanket Free Crochet Pattern, please click on the video link directly above or visit my YouTube channel at: https://youtu.be/NZsr_Eb9bAs
C2C Increase
Row 1: With MC, ch 6, in 4th ch from hook work 1 dc, 1 dc in ea of remaining 2 chs
Ch 6, work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook and remaining 2 chs, sl st in ch-3 sp from previous block, ch 3, work 3 dc in ch-3 sp
Rows 3 & 4: Repeat row 2 two more times
Row 5: Popcorn Row: Changing to designated CC, Ch 6, work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook and remaining 2 chs, *sl st in ch-3 sp from previous block, ch 3, work 1 dc, 1 pop, 1 dc in ch-3 sp; rep * to the last block; in the last block, do not work popcorn, instead work 3 dc in ch-sp.
Continue repeating rows 2-5 in the sequence of repeating rows 2-4 in MC, 1 row repeat of row 5 in CC.
When you complete your 45th row (a popcorn row) you’ll begin decreasing (this is the middle of the blanket).
To see step by step photos of how to work a C2C increase, please check out the images below.
C2C Decrease
Turn, then begin with sl st in each of the next 3 dc, sl st in ch-3 sp, ch 3, work 3 dc in ch-3 sp, sl st in next blocks ch-3 sp; proceed to end of row by working C2C pattern (sl st in ch-3 sp from previous block, ch 3, work 3 dc in ch-3 sp), ending with sl st in last ch-3 sp (When changing colors, do so after completing 3 sl sts over the beg 3 dc)
Repeat row 1 of C2C Decrease until you have one block left working in the sequence of 3 rows in MC, 1 pop row in CC; your final 4 rows will all be using MC and not incorporating the pop st (as in the beg rows of blanket pattern)
To see step by step photos of how to work the C2C decrease, please view the images below.
Border
Notes:
Do not turn; RS will always be facing
There will always be a total of four ch-2 sps and those are not included in the stitch count.
Directions for Birthday Sorbet Border
With RS facing and MC, join with standing sc in any corner and work 2 more sc in the same c2c block. Working around Blanket, work 3 sc in each block, (ch2 , then 3 more sc in each corner); end with ch 2 and sl st in top of first standing sc, fasten off. Each side: 135 sc
With CC2, join with standing hdc in any corner. Work 1 hdc in each st around, working (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner ch sp; end with (1hdc, ch 2) in final ch sp and join with sl st to first standing hdc, fasten off. Each side: 137 hdc
With MC, join in any corner ch sp a standing hdc, work 1 bpdc around each post from row 2, working (1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc) in each corner; end with (1 hdc, ch 2) in last corner and join with sl st to top of beginning hdc; fasten off. Each side: 137 bpdc, 2 hdc
(Note: make sure that your slip stitches are not too tight, otherwise they may pull your work and be difficult to work into on the next row). With CC1, join in any corner ch sp with standing sc, [work 1 sl st in ea of next 3 sts, *work 1 3-dc cluster st in top of next st 2 rows below, 1 sl st in ea of next 5 sts; rep * until 4 sts rem to corner sp , work 1 3-dc cluster, 1 sl st in ea of next 3 sts, (1 sc, ch2, 1 sc) in corner ch sp]; Rep [ ] 3 more times ending in last corner ch sp with (sc, ch2, join with sl st to top of standing sc). fasten off. Each side: 23 clusters, 2 sc, 116 sl st
With RS facing and MC, join with standing hdc in any corner ch sp, *work 1 hdc in each sl st and 1 fpdc around each 3dc cluster; work (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in each corner ; rep * around ending with ( hdc, ch 2) join with sl st in top of first standing hdc in last corner ch sp, fasten off. Each side: 120 hdc, 23 fpdc
With CC10, join with standing hdc in any corner ch sp, *work I hdc in each st and (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in each corner sp; rep * around. End with (hdc, ch 2) in last ch sp, join with sl st to top of first standing hdc, fasten off. Each side: 145 hdc
With MC, rep row 3. Each side:145 bpdc, 2 hdc
This is essentially a repeat of row 4; your 3dc clusters will be centered above the two 3dc clusters made in row 4. With CC7, join with standing sc in any corner space. [Work 1 sl st in ea of the next 4 sts, *work a 3dc cluster in the stitch 2 rows below (where the color ridge is formed), 1 sl st in ea of the next 5 st; rep * across until 5 sts rem to corner, work 1 3dc cluster, 4 sl st, then work (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner]; rep [ ] 3 more times ending with sc, ch2, join to top of standing sc with sl st, fasten off. Each side: 25 clusters, 2 sc, 122 sl st
With MC, rep row 5. Each side: 126 hdc, 25 fpdc
With CC5, rep row 6. Each side: 153 hdc
With CC8, rep row 6. Each side: 155 hdc
Weave in your ends, block and enjoy!
Here are the free charts to help with your color placement
This free crochet pattern is copyright 2023 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products; If you sell your final product, I just ask that you please purchase the ad-free pdf and credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you!
Today I am so excited to share with you the FREE crochet pattern for the Making Waves Mug Rug!
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. As an affiliate, when you purchase through my links, you allow the company to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more, which allows me to continue making free content.
About the Making Waves Mug Rug
The Making Waves Mug Rug was designed for the 2023 “Cozy at Home” Crochet along with CAL Central as an accompanying pattern to the Table Runner. This crochet along’s theme was to make something cozy and comfy for your home, but also included home decor and utilitarian projects.
Each week from January 9, 2023 – March 13, 2023 a different designer released a new, never before released free crochet pattern. Well, this is my contribution! When I placed the entire set on my table to photograph, my hubby even came up to me and said, “Wow! The table looks fantastic!” So, it looks like I’ll be completing the set of placemats and adding some more mug rugs for our table now 🙂
If you’d like to see the free patterns for the table runner and the placemat, please click an image below
About the yarn
The yarn used is the Comfy Cotton Blend from Lion Brand. This is a DK / #3 light weight yarn. It offers lots of drape, is soft to use and offers lots of yardage in one skein.
This pattern is an EASY project. Therefore, a beginner could try this out, too. This free crochet pattern has been tested – thank you to all my lovely testers!
If you prefer a printable pdf that includes printable gift tags for gifting you can purchase through Ravelry (or add to your favorites or que) or you can purchase directly through me and save 10% (Valid for US residents only)!
Or, purchase the COMPLETE Making Waves Table Set
The complete set includes the individual table runner, placemat and mug rug pdf patterns at a discounted price in comparison to if they were purchased individually. If you prefer to shop with Ravelry, simply add all three patterns to your cart and a discount will automatically apply or you can purchase directly from me and receive an additional discount of 10% (for US residents only).
Please note that due to this being a digital download, all sales are final and no refunds will be given. Thank you for your support!
Pattern for gauge is included below, right before the pattern directions (Gauge isn’t critical with this project, but will affect yarn usage)
Stitches & Abbreviations Used
(Pattern is written in US terms):
CC: Contrast color
Ch(s): Chain(s)
Dc: Double crochet
Ea: Each
Fpdc: Front post double crochet – Yarn over, insert hook from front to back around post indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops) twice
MC: Main color
Rep: Repeat
Sk: Skip
Sp: Space
St(s): Stitch(es)
Tch: Turning chain
Notes:
When shopping for beads, take 2 pieces of yarn with you to the store to determine if the yarn will fit through the bead. You want it to fit through with ease, but you don’t want the hole of the bead to be too large, as it might slide over the knot. Unfortunately, when I purchased my beads, they didn’t have a specific measurement, so I used my best judgment.
To make your mug rug wider or thinner, add or subtract in increments of 8.
If you are making the striped mug rug, do not cut the yarn at the end of each row. Instead, carry it along with your work.
For the beginning chain, chain loosely or go up a hook size.
To view the tutorial on how to crochet the Making Waves Mug Rug (this also is helpful with the placemat), please click on the video link directly above or visit my YouTube channel at: https://youtu.be/QAYYqIkyct8
Gauge Pattern:
(Gauge is not critical in this project, but will affect yarn usage)
With US G / 4mm crochet hook, loosely ch 21
Work row 1 of pattern
Work row 2 of pattern four times
Gauge swatch should measure 4” / 10 cm wide x 2 7/8” / 7.3 cm tall from the top of a shell to the bottom of the piece.
Directions for Making Waves Mug Rug:
Notes: For the striped mug rug, use the following sequence and carry the yarn (do not cut the yarn) not being currently used with your work, as you’ll be changing colors every row.
Rows 1 – 2: CC
Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 and 13: MC
Rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12: CC
Rows 14 and 15: CC
With US G / 4mm crochet hook and CC, loosely chain 29
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (3 skipped chs count as dc) and in next ch, *sk next 2 chs, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch, sk next 2 chs, 1 dc in ea of next 3 chs; rep * across, turn. Stitch count: 3 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) clusters, 12 dc
Row 2 (Pattern repeat): Ch 2, work fpdc around ea of next 2 dc posts, sk 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, *sk next 2 dc, work fpdc around ea of next 3 dc , sk next 2 dc, work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp; rep * to last 5 sts, sk next 2 dc, work fpdc around next 2 dc, dc in top of tch, turn. Stitch count: 3 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) clusters, 10 fpdc, 1 dc, 1 ch-2
For Solid Mug Rug: Rep row 2 thirteen more times or to your desired length.
For Striped Mug Rug: Rep row 2 alternating colors (do not cut yarn) for each row until the piece measures 8” / 20 cm or your desired length, ending with two final rows of CC.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends and block prior to adding fringe and the beads.
Fringe (Optional)
Note: To make feeding the yarn through the bead easier, use a tapestry needle
Cut ten 8” / 20 cm strands of yarn (If you did the striped version, use MC for fringe)
Attach one fringe to each “point” and one on each of the outer edges
Attach one bead to each fringe and then secure it with a knot.
Trim the edges of fringe to .75” / 1.9 cm or length desired
Please take pictures and tag me at #handmadebystacyj and @handmadebystacyj
This free crochet pattern is copyright 2023 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products; If you sell your final product, I just ask that you please purchase the ad-free pdf and credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you!
Today I am so excited to share with you the FREE crochet pattern for the Making Waves Placemat!
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. As an affiliate, when you purchase through my links, you allow the company to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more, which allows me to continue making free content.
About the Making Waves Placemat
The Making Waves Placemat was designed for the 2023 “Cozy at Home” Crochet along with CAL Central as an accompanying pattern to the Table Runner. This crochet along’s theme was to make something cozy and comfy for your home, but also included home decor and utilitarian projects.
Each week from January 9, 2023 – March 13, 2023 a different designer released a new, never before released free crochet pattern. Well, this is my contribution! When I placed the entire set on my table to photograph, my hubby even came up to me and said, “Wow! The table looks fantastic!” So, it looks like I’ll be completing this set of placemats and some more mug rugs for our table now 🙂
If you’d like to see the free patterns for the table runner and the mug rug, please click on the image below.
About the yarn
The yarn used is the Comfy Cotton Blend from Lion Brand. This is a DK / #3 light weight yarn. It offers lots of drape, is soft to use and offers lots of yardage in one skein.
This free crochet pattern is an EASY project. Therefore, a beginner could try this out, too. This pattern has been tested – thank you to all my lovely testers!
If you prefer a printable pdf that includes printable gift tags for gifting you can purchase through Ravelry (or add to your favorites or que) or you can purchase directly through me and save 10% (Valid for US residents only)!
Or, purchase the COMPLETE Making Waves Table Set
The complete set includes the table runner, placemat and mug rug pdf patterns at a discounted price in comparison to if they were purchased individually. If you prefer to shop with Ravelry, simply add all three patterns to your cart and a discount will automatically apply or you can purchase directly from me and receive an additional discount of 10% (for US residents only).
Please note that due to this being a digital download, all sales are final and no refunds will be given. Thank you for your support!
Materials:
Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend Yarn (50% Cotton / 50% Polyester; 392 yds / 358 m; 7 oz / 200g; DK / #3 Light weight) – 160 yds / 146 m in color “Chai Latte” (Main color) and 151 yds / 138 m in color “Whipped Cream” (Contrast color)(If you need to shop online, here is LoveCrafts link and here is my affiliate link to Lion Brand)
14 smaller wood beads for decorative fringe (optional)
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Measuring tape
Here’s a pin for you Pinterest board 🙂
Measures:
19.5” x 12.5” / 48 cm x 31.75 cm without fringe
23.5” x 12.5” / 60 cm x 31.75 cm with fringe
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Gauge:
Pattern for gauge is included below, right before the pattern directions (Gauge isn’t critical with this project, but will affect yarn usage)
Stitches & Abbreviations Used
(Pattern is written in US terms):
CC: Contrast color
Ch(s): Chain(s)
Dc: Double crochet
Ea: Each
Fpdc: Front post double crochet – Yarn over, insert hook from front to back around post indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops) twice
MC: Main color
Rep: Repeat
Sk: Skip
Sp: Space
St(s): Stitch(es)
Tch: Turning chain
Notes:
When shopping for beads, take 2 pieces of yarn with you to the store to determine if the yarn will fit through the bead. You want it to fit through with ease, but you don’t want the hole of the bead to be too large, as it might slide over the knot. Unfortunately, when I purchased my beads, they didn’t have a specific measurement, so I used my best judgment.
To make your placemat wider or thinner, add or subtract in increments of 8.
Do not cut the yarn at the end of each row. Instead, carry it along with your work.
For the beginning chain, chain loosely or go up a hook size.
To view the tutorial on how to carry the yarn, I’ve created a video of the Making Waves Mug Rug that will demonstrate that and will also walk you through how to do the stitches for the placemat (see link above).
Gauge Pattern:
(Gauge is not critical in this project, but will affect yarn usage)
With US G / 4mm crochet hook, loosely ch 21
Work row 1 of pattern
Work row 2 of pattern four times
Gauge swatch should measure 4” / 10 cm wide x 2 7/8” / 7.3 cm tall from the top of a shell to the bottom of the piece.
Directions for Making Waves Placemat:
Using US G / 4mm crochet hook and CC, loosely chain 61
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (3 skipped chs count as dc) and in next ch, *sk next 2 chs, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch, sk next 2 chs, 1 dc in ea of next 3 chs; rep * across, turn. Stitch count: 7 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) clusters, 24 dc
Row 2 (Pattern repeat): Ch 2, work fpdc around ea of next 2 dc posts, sk 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, *sk next 2 dc, work fpdc around ea of next 3 dc , sk next 2 dc, work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp; rep * to last 5 sts, sk next 2 dc, work fpdc around next 2 dc, dc in top of tch, turn. Stitch count: 7 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) clusters, 22 fpdc, 1 dc, 1 ch-2
Rep row 2 alternating colors (do not cut yarn) for each row until the piece measures 19” / 48.3 cm or your desired length, ending with two final rows of CC.
Fasten off. Weave in ends and block prior to adding fringe and the beads.
Weave in ends and block prior to adding the beads.
Fringe (Optional)
Note: To make feeding the yarn through the bead easier, use a tapestry needle
Using MC, cut 28 strands of 10” / 25.4 cm length for fringe
Attach 2 strands to each “point” on the short ends of the placemat
Using the 2 strands at each “point”, strand one bead and secure with a knot
This free crochet pattern is copyright 2023 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products; If you sell your final product, I just ask that you please purchase the ad-free pdf and credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you!
Today I am so excited to share with you the FREE crochet pattern for the Making Waves Table Runner!
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. As an affiliate, when you purchase through my links, you allow the company to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more, which allows me to continue making free content.
About the Making Waves Table Runner
The Making Waves Table Runner was designed for the 2023 “Cozy at Home” Crochet along with CAL Central. This crochet along’s theme was to make something cozy and comfy for your home, but also included home decor and utilitarian projects.
Each week from January 9, 2023 – March 13, 2023 a different designer released a new, never before released free crochet pattern. Well, this is my contribution! When I placed the entire set on my table to photograph, my hubby even came up to me and said, “Wow! The table looks fantastic!” So, it looks like I’ll be completing the set of placemats and mug rugs for our table now 🙂
If you’d like to see the free crochet pattern for the placemat and the mug rug, please click on the image below to be taken to the free pattern on the website.
About the yarn
The yarn used is the Comfy Cotton Blend from Lion Brand. This is a DK / #3 light weight yarn. It offers lots of drape, is soft to use and offers lots of yardage in one skein.
The Making Waves Table Runner is an EASY project. Therefore, a beginner could try this out, too. This pattern has been tested – thank you to all my lovely testers!
If you prefer a printable pdf that includes printable gift tagsfor gifting you can purchase through Ravelry (or add to your favorites or que) or you can purchase directly through me and save 10% (Valid for US residents only)!
Or, purchase the COMPLETE Making Waves Table Set
The complete set includes the Making Waves table runner, placemat and mug rug pdf patterns at a discounted price in comparison to if they were purchased individually. If you prefer to shop with Ravelry, simply add all three patterns to your cart and a discount will automatically apply or you can purchase directly from me and receive an additional discount of 10% (for US residents only).
Please note that due to this being a digital download, all sales are final and no refunds will be given. Thank you for your support!
Materials:
Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend Yarn (50% Cotton / 50% Polyester; 392 yds / 358 m; 7 oz / 200g; DK / #3 Light weight) – 904 yds / 827 m in color “Whipped Cream” (If you need to shop online, here is LoveCrafts link and here is my affiliate link toLion Brand)
12 Wood Barrel Beads in color “Walnut” for decorative fringe (optional)
10 smaller wood beads for decorative fringe (optional)
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Measuring tape
Here’s a pin for you Pinterest board 🙂
Measures:
72” x 13.5” / 183 cm x 34 cm without fringe
82” x 13.5” / 208 cm x 34 cm with fringe
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Gauge:
Pattern for gauge is included below, right before the pattern directions (Gauge isn’t critical with this project, but will affect yarn usage)
Stitches & Abbreviations Used
(Pattern is written in US terms):
Ch(s): Chain(s)
Dc: Double crochet
Ea: Each
Fpdc: Front post double crochet – Yarn over, insert hook from front to back around post indicated, yarn over and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops) twice
Rep: Repeat
Sk: Skip
Sp: Space
St(s): Stitch(es)
Tch: Turning chain
Notes:
Before beginning the Making Waves Table Runner, measure your table and add 3” – 6” / 8 cm – 15 cm for each edge for the draping of the table runner. The runner will “grow” a little with blocking if you use the recommended yarn; my runner grew approximately 6” / 15 cm in length. My table length is 54” / 1.37 m and I added 6” / 15 cm for each side.
Each cake of yarn gave me approximately 32” / 81 cm of length.
When shopping for beads for your table runner, take 2 pieces of yarn with you to determine if the yarn will fit through the bead. You want it to fit through with ease, but you don’t want the hole of the bead to be too large, as it might slide over the knot. Unfortunately, when I purchased my beads, they didn’t have a specific measurement, so I used my best judgment.
To make your table runner wider or thinner, add or subtract in increments of 8.
For the beginning chain, chain loosely or go up a hook size.
To view the tutorial on how to crochet the Making Waves Table Runner, please click on the video link directly above or visit my YouTube channel at: https://youtu.be/bsJ1usbaD3o
Gauge Pattern:
(Gauge is not critical in this project, but will affect yarn usage)
With US H / 5mm crochet hook ch 21
Work row 1 of pattern
Work row 2 of pattern four times
Gauge swatch should measure 4.75” / 12 cm wide x 3” / 7.6 cm tall from the top of a shell to the bottom of the piece.
Directions for Making Waves Table Runner:
With US H / 5mm crochet hook, loosely chain 61
Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (3 skipped chs count as dc) and in next ch, *sk next 2 chs, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch, sk next 2 chs, 1 dc in ea of next 3 chs; rep * across, turn. Stitch count: 24 dc, 7 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) clusters
Row 2 (Pattern repeat): Ch 2, work fpdc around ea of next 2 dc posts, sk 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp, *sk next 2 dc, work fpdc around ea of next 3 dc , sk next 2 dc, work (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch-1 sp; rep * to last 5 sts, sk next 2 dc, work fpdc around next 2 dc, dc in top of tch, turn. Stitch count: 7 (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) clusters, 22 fpdc, 1 ch-2, 1 dc
Rep row 2 until the piece measures 66” or your desired length
Fasten off.
Weave in ends and block prior to adding the beads.
Fringe for the Making Waves Table Runner (Optional)
Cut a total of 24 strands of yarn that are 18” / 46 cm for fringe (12 for each end)
Note: To make feeding the yarn through the bead easier, use a tapestry needle.
Attach 1 strand of fringe for each of the outer edge “points”, then attach 2 strands on each of the inner “points” (insert diagram or picture).
Using the larger Barrel beads, attach using the following sequence:
Outer fringe (2 strands) and 2 strands of the next fringe, then continue across using the remaining 2 strands from the previous fringe and 2 strands from the next fringe, ending with the remaining 2 strands from the last inner point and the 2 strands from the final outer edge.
Align the beads how you like so that they all look consistent and secure with a knot.
Using the smaller beads, attach the outer edge 4 strands with 2 strands from the next fringe, then continue across using the remaining 2 strands from the previous fringe and 2 strands from the next fringe, ending with the last 2 strands from the last inner fringe and the 4 strands from the outer edge.
Align the beads for consistency, then secure with a knot.
Trim the final ends to have approximately 1.5” / 4 cm of fringe left.
I hope you enjoyed this free crochet pattern as much as I enjoyed designing it. Please take pictures and tag me at #handmadebystacyj and @handmadebystacyj
This free crochet pattern is copyright 2023 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products; If you sell your final product, I just ask that you please purchase the ad-free pdf and credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you!
Today I am so excited to share with you the FREE crochet pattern for the Striped Snarf Scarf! This pattern is a crochet version of a knit Snarf Scarf that I designed in 2021.
The Striped Snarf Scarf is a dog scarf that was inspired by our latest addition to our family: Moxxi! We adopted her in 2021 and she makes the funniest sound when she gets a treat. It sounds like a big “SNARF!” Since we hadn’t had a little girl dog for ages, we decided that she needed a little wardrobe – hence, the Snarf Scarf was born!
You’ll notice that there aren’t any pictures of her actually wearing the Striped Snarf Scarf, though. Since she’s still a pup, her tendency is to eat the scarf, rather than model it. So, her big brother Bucket is the model for the pictures. 🙂
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. As an affiliate, when you purchase through my links, you allow the company to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more, which allows me to continue making free content. The yarn for this pattern was provided to me from King Cole – I am a King Cole Brand Ambassador and this post is part of our ongoing collaboration. Thank you for your support!
About the Striped Snarf Scarf
The Snarf Scarf is triangular in shape and uses very little yarn; therefore it would be a great stash diving project. It uses DK weight yarn with only one color at a time, works up in just a couple hours and is completely customizable to the size of your critter. Bucket and Moxxi are both medium size dogs and the scarf fits them as the pattern is written. However, if you have a very large dog, you just continue repeating until it’s the right size; or, if you have a smaller critter, you can stop the repeats when the size is right.
If you prefer a printable pdf with a larger font and printable gift tags for gifting, you can grab your ad-free, pdf pattern on Ravelry HEREor at my Etsy shop HERE.
About the yarn
The yarn used is from King Cole’s “Cherished Baby Double Knitting” yarn. It’s a dream to work with, is super soft and has approximately 262 yards in each skein. So, you can make lots of snarf scarves with just a couple skeins!
This pattern is an EASY project. Therefore, a beginner could try this out, too. This pattern has been tested – thank you to all my lovely testers!
You can grab your pattern on Ravelry HEREor at my Etsy shop HERE.
Here’s a pin for you Pinterest board
Materials:
King Cole Cherished baby double knitting (100% Low-Pilling Acrylic; 262 yds / 240 m; 100g; #3 / dk weight) yarn in colors: Main Color (Red): 40 yds / 37 m and Contrast Color (White): 18 yds / 17 m (To find your local store that stocks King Cole yarns, here is the stockist finder link; Or, if you need to shop online, here is LoveCrafts link)
25” x 5” / 64 cm x 13 cm (to fit a critter with a 16” – 18” / 41 cm x 46 cm neck) Directions are written to customize to your own critter
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Gauge:
5 pattern repeats = 4″ or 10 cm (Gauge isn’t critical with this project)
Stitches & Abbreviations Used
(Pattern is written in US terms):
BLO: Back loop only
CC: Contrast color
Ch: Chain
Ea: Each
Hdc: Half double crochet
Hdc2tog: Half double crochet 2 together
MC: Main color
Rep: Repeat
RS: Right side
Sc: Single crochet
Sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together
St (s): Stitch (es)
Tch: Turning chain
WS: Wrong side
Notes:
Ch 1 and ch 2 at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch
When beginning the body of the scarf, use a lockable stitch marker to mark the right side of your work
Do not cut yarn; instead the yarn will be carried facing the WS with each row worked; when completing a row, give the carried yarn a small tug, but be careful not to pull too tight
When working the body of the scarf, each RS row will have an even number of stitches and each WS row will have an odd number of stitches
The tie straps are written to measure 6” / 15 cm on each side, but feel free to add or subtract length as needed for your critter
To view the tutorial on how to crochet the Striped Snarf Scarf, please click on the video link directly above or visit my YouTube channel at: https://youtu.be/PL667cnNhG0
Directions for Striped Snarf Scarf:
Before beginning the project, measure your critter’s neck and then subtract 3” / 7.6 cm (this will be the size of the body of the scarf). Then divide that number by 2 (that will be the halfway measurement for the body of the scarf).
First tie strap:
With MC, ch 4
Row 1: In third ch from hook, work 1 hdc and in next ch; ch 2, turn
Row 2: 1 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next st and 1 hdc in top of tch; ch 2, turn (3 hdc)
Row 3: 1 hdc in first st and in ea st across (do not work tch); ch 2, turn (3 hdc)
Rep row 3 until piece measures approximately 6” / 15 cm or your desired length
Body of scarf:
Increase rows (Each row increases by one stitch)
Row 1 (RS) MC: 1 hdc in BLO in ea st across, 2 hdc in BLO of last st
Row 2 (WS) CC: ch 1, turn; 2 sc in first st and 1 sc in ea st across
Row 3 MC: Ch 2, turn; 1 hdc in BLO in ea st across, 2 hdc in BLO of last st
Rep rows 2-3 until the piece measures 6” / 15 cm or to the halfway point of your body of scarf measurement ending with completion of WS row
Decrease rows (Each row decreases by one stitch)
Row 1 (RS) MC: Ch 2, turn; 1 hdc in BLO in first st and in ea st across to last 3 sts, 1 hdc2tog in BLO, 1 hdc in BLO
Row 2 (WS) CC: Ch 1, turn; 1 sc in first st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in ea st across
Rep rows 1-2 until 5 sts remain; cut CC
Rep row 1 once more
Next row (WS): Ch 1, turn; 1 sc in first st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in next st; ch 2, turn (3 sc)
Second tie strap:
Rep row 3 of First tie strap until piece measures 6” / 15 cm or your desired length ending with completion of RS row, do not turn
Border:
For this section of the pattern you will be working on the RS down the tie strap and the bottom of the scarf
Ch 1, evenly work sc down to the “point” of the triangular bottom of the scarf
At the “point” work 3 sc in the same st
Continue evenly working sc up to the end of the bottom section (where the beginning ch and 3 hdc are located)
Ch 1, work 1 sc in ea of the 3 beginning sts; fasten off and weave in ends.
Give to your critter, take pictures and tag me at #handmadebystacyj and @handmadebystacyj
If you like to knit, check out the original Holiday Snarf Scarf
Wishing you a happy, snarfy kind of day with lots of yarn (and snacks)!
This pattern is copyright 2022 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products; If you sell your final product, I just ask that you please purchase the ad-free pdf and credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you!
The 4 Day Throw was inspired by a knit stitch that I modified for a collaboration project with another designer. She directed her followers to my YouTube channel and had them pick out a stitch for her upcoming design. Well, they all picked a knit stitch. My fellow designer is not a knitter, so I adapted the stitch to slightly resemble the stitch chosen. Hence, the Leafy Lace Stitch was born!
As I created the stitch, it really called out to me to be a blanket. So, I gathered some yarn and gave it a shot. Although I loved the first version, it needed some adjustments. So, I made it again and had it tested. The testers did an amazing job and also gave me feedback that required going back to the drawing board. I reworked and rewrote the pattern, had it tested once more and here we have it!
I named it the “4 Day Throw” because I was able to make each version In just under 4 days. However, I did work on each blanket for about 8-10 hours each day. Your timing may vary depending on your skill level and the time that you have to dedicate to your project.
My testers rated the 4 Day Throw for an Intermediate to Advanced level crocheter. They did warn that this is not a project with which you can lose yourself in a television program or podcast. This project does require some concentration. However, the end result is worth it!
It’s sized for a 48″ x 58″ throw and the terms are written in US terminology. There’s a full length video tutorial (with time stamps) to help throughout the entire throw.
Also, THANK YOU to all of my wonderful testers! I couldn’t have done this pattern without you! And a big THANK YOU to Mary Maxim for providing the yarn for this gorgeous blanket!
Stitches & Terms Used (Pattern is written in US terms):
BPTR: Back Post Treble Crochet – Yo 2 times, insert hook back to front around indicated stitch, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), [yo, draw through 2] three times
BPTR3tog: Back Post Treble 3 Together – Yo 2 times, insert hook back to front around first stitch, draw up a loop, [yo, draw through 2] two times (2 loops on hook), yo 2 times, insert hook back to front around next stitch, draw up a loop, [yo, draw through 2] two times (3 loops on hook), yo 2 times, insert hook back to front around next stitch, draw up a loop [yo, draw through 2] two times (4 loops on hook), yo, draw through remaining 4 loops
Ch: Chain
Dc: Double Crochet
Dc2tog: Double Crochet 2 Together – Yo, insert hook into next st, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 (leaving 2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into next stitch, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 (3 loops remaining on hook), yo and then draw through all 3 loops on hook
Ea: Each
Fdc: Foundation Double Crochet – Ch 3; Yo, insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook); Yo and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made); [Yo and draw through 2 loops] 2x (1 Fdc with ch at bottom); *Yo, insert hook under the 2 loops of the chain at the bottom of the stitch just made, yo and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yo and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), (yo and draw through 2 loops) 2 times; rep *
FPTR3tog: Front Post Treble 3 Together – Yo 2 times, insert hook front to back around first stitch, draw up a loop, [yo, draw through 2] two times (2 loops on hook), yo 2 times, insert hook front to back around next stitch, draw up a loop, [yo, draw through 2] two times (3 loops on hook), yo 2 times, insert hook front to back around next stitch, draw up a loop [yo, draw through 2] two times (4 loops on hook), yo, draw through remaining 4 loops
FPTR: Front Post Treble Crochet – Yo 2 times, insert hook front to back around indicated stitch, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), [yo, draw through 2] three times
modBPTR: Modified Back Post Treble Crochet – Yo 2 times, insert hook back to front around post that faces RS of indicated stitch, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), [yo, draw through 2] twice (2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook in stitch behind post just worked, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2, yo, draw through remaining 3 loops
modFPTR: Modified Front Post Treble Crochet – Yo 2 times, insert hook front to back around post that faces RS of indicated stitch, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), [yo, draw through 2] twice (2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook in stitch behind post just worked, draw up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2, yo, draw through remaining 3 loops
Rep: Repeat
RS: Right Side
Sk: Skip
Sp: Space
St(s): Stitch (es)
Tch: Turning Chain
WS: Wrong Side
X: Times (Example: 5x = 5 times)
Yo: Yarn over
Gauge Swatch
The gauge swatch pattern is used to confirm that you are working with the same tension as I do. This helps in determining the amount of yarn needed. If your gauge swatch turns out larger, go down a hook size. If your swatch measures smaller, then go up a hook size.
The gauge swatch pattern has a slightly different border than the blanket does. However, it’s a great way for you to gain understanding of how the leaves are formed. You’ll get comfortable with the placement of your stitches, as well as understand the modified front and back post treble crochet stitches.
To see a video tutorial that walks you through the gauge swatch, please click the image below or click HERE; you can also visit the crochet stitchespage, if you prefer.
Gauge Swatch Pattern
Measures: 6” x 5” / 15.24 cm x 12.7 cm
Note (For Gauge Swatch only): Ch-3 at beg of row counts as first dc
Using J / 6 mm crochet hook, work 19 Foundation dc and skip to step 2 (only work step one is if the beginning ch method is your preferred method)
Row 1: Ch 22; Work 1 dc in fourth ch from hook (skipped chs count as first dc) and then in ea ch across
2: Ch 3, turn; (RS): 1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st, 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, ch 2, sk 3, 3 dc in next st, ch 2, sk 3, 1 dc in ea of next 3 sts, 1 modFPTR in next st, 1 dc in next st and 1 dc in top of tch
3: Ch 3, turn; (WS): 1 dc in next st, 1 modBPTR in next st, 1 dc in ea of next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 1 dc and ch-2 sp, 1 BPTR around first post of 3-dc cluster, [1 BPTR, 1 dc, 1 BPTR] in second st, 1 BPTR around third post of 3-dc cluster, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp and dc, 1 dc in ea of next 2 sts, 1 modBPTR in next st, 1 dc in next st and 1 dc in top of tch
4: Ch 3, turn; 1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st, 1 dc in next st, ch 2, sk 1 dc and ch-2 sp, 1 FPTR around ea of the next 2 posts, [1 FPTR, 1 dc, 1 FPTR] in next st, 1 FPTR around post of ea of the next 2 sts, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp and 1 dc, 1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st, 1 dc in next st and 1 dc in top of tch
5: Ch 3, turn; 1 dc in next st, 1 modBPTR in next st, 1 dc in next st and 1 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, 1 BPTR around ea of the next 2 posts, 1 BPTR3tog around next 3 posts, 1 BPTR around ea of next 2 posts, ch 2, 1 dc in ch-2 sp and 1 dc in next st, 1 modBPTR in next st, 1 dc in next stand 1 dc in top of tch
6: Ch 3, turn; 1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st, 1 dc in ea of next 2 sts and ch-2 sp, ch 2, 1 FPTR in next st, 1 FPTR3tog around next 3 posts, 1 FPTR in next st, ch 2, 1 dc in ch-2 sp and in ea of next 2 dcs, 1 modFPTR in next st, 1 dc in next st and 1 dc in top of tch
7: Ch 3, turn; 1 dc in next st, 1 modBPTR in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts and 1 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, BPTR3tog around next 3 posts, ch 2, 1 dc in ch-2 sp and in ea of the next 3 sts, 1 modBPTR in next st, 1 dc in next st and 1 dc in top of tch
Take a look at your gauge swatch and it should look like the example below. It should measure 6” / 15.2 cm across and 5” / 12.7 cm tall. Now, let’s move on to the blanket.
First dc will be made in first st where tch is located
Each leaf is worked in a panel; Panels 1, 3, 5 & 7 begin and end with a full leaf, panels 2, 4, & 6 begin and end with a half leaf
There is a chart at the end of the written pattern for reference, as well as a check list
Optional: Using a lockable stitch marker, mark the right side of your work
Full length video tutorial (with time stamps), please click below
Directions:
Work 127 Fdc and skip to Bottom Border section (only the work step below is if the beginning ch is your preferred method)
Chain 129: Work 1 dc in third ch from hook (skipped chs do not count as first dc) and in ea ch across (127 dc)
Bottom Border:
Row 1: Ch 2, turn; (RS): 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st, *1 modFPTR, 1 dc; rep * across until 1 st remains; 1 dc in top of tch (62 modFPTR, 65 dc)
2. Ch 2, turn; (WS): 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st, *1 modBPTR around FPTR from previous row, 1 dc in next st; rep * until 1 st remains, 1 dc2tog in last st and top of tch (62 modBPTR, 64 dc, 1 dc2tog)
3. Ch 2, turn; (RS): 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st, *1 modFPTR, 1 dc; rep * across until 1 st remains; 1 dc2tog in last st and top of tch (62 modFPTR, 64 dc, 1 dc2tog)
Repeat rows 2-3 once more
Repeat row 2 once more
Body of Blanket
Row 1:
Ch 2, turn; (RS): 1 dc in first st, [1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st] 7x
Panel 1:
1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, ch 2, sk 3, 3 dc in next st, ch 2, sk 3, 1 dc in ea of next 3 sts, 1 Fptr in next st
Panel 2:
dc in ea of the next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 1 Fptr around ea of next 2 sts, 1 FpTr3tog around post just worked and ea of the next 2 posts, 1 Fptr around post just worked, 1 Fptr around next st, ch 2, sk 2, 1 dc in ea of next 2 sts, 1 Fptr in next st
Rep Panel 1 – Panel 2 twice more
Rep Panel 1 once more making last Fptr a ModFPTR, then end with [1 dc, 1 modFPTR] 6x, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog in last dc and in top of tch (14 modFPTR, 51 dc, 14 ch-2, 4 3-dc clusters, 18 FPTR, 3 FPTR3tog, 1 dc2tog)
Row 2:
Ch 2, turn; (WS): 1 dc in first st, [1 dc in next st, 1 modBPTR in next st] 7x
Panel 1:
1 dc in ea of next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 1 dc and ch-2 sp, 1 BPTR around first post of 3-dc cluster, [1 BPTR, 1 dc, 1 BPTR] in second st, 1 BPTR around third post of 3-dc cluster, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp and dc, 1 dc in ea of next 2 sts, 1 Bptr in next st
Panel 2:
1 dc in ea of next 2 sts, 1 dc in ch-sp, ch 2, 1 BPTR, 1 BPTR3tog, 1 BPTR, ch 2, 1 dc in ch-sp, 1 dc in ea of next 2 sts, 1 Bptr in next st
Rep Panels 1-2 twice more
Rep Panel 1 once more making last Bptr a ModBptr and then end with [1 dc, 1 modBPTR] 6x, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog in last dc and in top of tch (14 modBPTR, 49 dc, 14 ch-2, 20 BPTR, 4 [BPTR, 1 dc, BPTR] Cluster, 3 BPTR3tog, 1 dc2tog)
Row 3:
Ch 2, turn; 1 dc in first st, [1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st] 7x
Panel 1:
1 dc in next st, ch 2, sk 1 dc and ch-2 sp, 1 FPTR around ea of the next 2 posts, [1 FPTR, 1 dc, 1 FPTR] in middle st of 3-dc cluster, 1 FPTR around post of ea of the next 2 sts, ch 2, sk ch-2 sp and 1 dc, 1 dc in next st, 1 Fptr in next st
Panel 2:
1 dc in ea of next 3 sts, 1 dc in ch-sp, ch 2, FPTR3tog, ch 2, 1 dc in ch-sp, 1 dc in ea of next 3 sts, 1 Fptr in next st
Rep panels 1-2 twice more
Rep panel 1 once more making last Fptr a ModFPTR, then end with [1 dc, 1 modFPTR] 6x, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog in last dc and in top of tch (14 modFPTR, 47 dc, 14 ch-2, 4 [FPTR, 1 dc, FPTR] clusters, 22 FPTR, 3 FPTR3tog, 1 dc2tog)
Row 4:
Ch 2, turn; 1 dc in first st, [1 dc in next st, 1 modBPTR in next st] 7x
Panel 1:
1 dc in next st, 1 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, 1 BPTR around ea of the next 2 posts, 1 BPTR3tog around next 3 posts, 1 BPTR around ea of next 2 posts, ch 2, 1 dc in ch-2 sp and 1 dc in next st, 1 Bptr in next st
Panel 2:
1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch 2, sk 1 dc and ch-sp, 3 dc in top of FPTR3tog from previous row, ch 2, sk ch-sp and 1 dc, 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts, 1 Bptr in next st
Rep panels 1 – 2 twice more
Rep panel 1 once more making last Bptr a ModBPTR, then end with [1 dc, 1 modBPTR] 6x, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog in last dc and in top of tch (14 modBPTR, 49 dc, 14 ch-2, 22 BPTR, 3 3-dc clusters, 4 BPTR3tog, 1 dc2tog)
Row 5:
Ch 2, turn; 1 dc in first st, [1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st] 7x
Panel 1:
1 dc in ea of next 2 sts, 1 dc in ch-sp, ch 2, 1 FPTR in next st, 1 FPTR3tog around next 3 posts, 1 FPTR in next st, ch 2, 1 dc in ch-2 sp and in ea of next 2 dcs, 1 Fptr in next st
Panel 2:
1 dc in ea of next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 1 dc and ch-sp, 1 FPTR in next st, [1 FPTR, 1 dc, 1 FPTR] in middle st of 3-dc cluster, 1 FPTR in next st, ch 2, sk ch-sp and 1 dc, 1 dc in ea of next 2 sts, 1 Fptr in next st
Rep panels 1 – 2 twice more
Rep panel 1 once more making last Fptr a ModFPTR, then end with [1 dc, 1 modFPTR] 6x, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog in last dc and in top of tch (14 modFPTR, 51 dc, 14 ch-2, 3 [FPTR, 1 dc, FPTR] clusters, 20 FPTR, 4 FPTR3tog, 1 dc2tog)
Row 6:
Ch 2, turn; 1 dc in first st, [1 dc in next st, 1 modBPTR in next st] 7x
Panel 1:
1 dc in next 3 sts and 1 dc in ch-2 sp, ch 2, BPTR3tog around next 3 posts, ch 2, 1 dc in ch-2 sp and in ea of the next 3 sts, 1 Bptr in next st
Panel 2:
1 dc in next st, ch 2, sk 1 dc and ch-sp, 1 BPTR in ea of next 2 sts, [1 BPTR, 1 dc, 1 BPTR] in middle st of 3-dc cluster, 1 BPTR in ea of next 2 sts, ch 2, sk ch-sp and 1 dc, 1 dc in next st, 1 Bptr in next st
Rep panels 1 – 2 twice more
Rep panel 1 once more making last Bptr a ModBPTR, then end with [1 dc, 1 modBPTR] 6x, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog in last dc and in top of tch (14 modBPTR, 53 dc, 14 ch-2, 18 BPTR, 3 [BPTR, dc, BPTR] clusters, 4 BPTR3tog, 1 dc2tog)
Row 7:
Ch 2, turn; 1 dc in first st, [1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st] 7x
Panel 1:
1 dc in ea of next 3 sts, ch 2, sk 1 dc and ch-sp, 3 dc in top of BPTR3tog from previous row, ch 2, sk ch-sp and 1 dc, 1 dc in ea of next 3 sts, 1 Fptr in next st
Panel 2:
1 dc in next st, 1 dc in ch-sp, ch 2, 1 FPTR in ea of next 2 sts, 1 FPTR3tog, 1 FPTR in ea of next 2 sts, ch 2, 1 dc in ch-sp, 1 dc in next st, 1 Fptr in next st
Rep panels 1 – 2 twice more
Rep panel 1 once more but make last Fptr a ModFPTR, then end with [1 dc, 1 modFPTR] 6x, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog in last dc and in top of tch (14 modFPTR, 51 dc, 14 ch-2, 4 3-dc clusters, 18 FPTR, 3 FPTR3tog, 1 dc2tog)
Repeat rows 2-7 eleven more times ending with last repeat with completion of row 6
(12 full leaves on panels 1, 3, 5, 7; 11 full leaves with 2 half leaves on panels 2, 4, 6)
Top Border
Row 1:
Ch 2, turn; 1 dc in first st, [1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st] 7x
Panel 1: [1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st] 2x, 2 dc in ch-sp, 1 dc next st (top of bptr3tog from previous row), 2 dc in ch-sp, [1 modFPTR in next st, 1 dc in next st] 2x, 1 modFPTR in next st
Panel 2: 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in ch-sp, 1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in between the next st and st just previously worked, 1 dc in next st (middle st of 7 sts worked in previous row), 1 dc in between the next st and st just previously worked, 1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in ch-sp, 1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st
Rep panels 1 – 2 twice more
Rep panel 1 once more ending with [1 dc, 1 modFPTR] 6x, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog in last dc and in top of tch (84 dc, 42 modFPTR, 1 dc2tog)
Row 2:
Ch 2, turn; (WS): 1 dc in first st, [1 dc in next st, 1 modBPTR in next st] across to last 2 sts and tch, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog in last st and tch (64 dc, 62 modBPTR, 1 dc2tog)
Row 3:
Ch 2, turn; 1 dc in first st, [1 dc in next st, 1 modFPTR in next st] across to last 2 sts and tch, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog in last st and tch (64 dc, 62 modFPTR, 1 dc2tog)
Repeat rows 2-3 twice more
Fasten off and weave in ends
I hope you enjoy making this blanket as much as I did! Please tag me on social media @handmadebystacyj or #handmadebystacyj so that I can see your makes. Thank you so much for your support!
This pattern is copyright 2023 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products; I just ask that if you sell your final product, please purchase the ad-free pdf, provide your own photographs and that you please credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you for your support!
This written pattern for the Paislee Baby Blanket can be used with the video tutorial on the “Handmade by Stacy J” YouTube channel. It‘s a beginner friendly crochet pattern that makes a beautiful baby blanket. There is also a checklist attached to the pattern to help keep track of rows; And, you can access that by scrolling to the bottom of this page. Enjoy!
Difficulty level:
Easy
Stitches & Abbreviations Used:
Pattern is written in US Terms
Beg: Beginning
Bphdc: Back post half double crochet
Ch: Chain
Dc: Double Crochet
Hdc: Half Double Crochet
MC: Main Color
Rep: Repeat
Sc: Single Crochet
Sk: Skip
Sl St: Slip Stitch
St (s): Stitch (es)
Here’s a pin for your Pinterest board
Disclosure: If you choose to purchase your yarn through my affiliate links, please know that you will be allowing the companies to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more. This allows me to continue creating free content. Thank you for your support!!
To adjust size, work in multiples of 3 + 2 and add 1 for the base chain
Ch 189 with Main Color and G+ (4.5 mm) hook
1. (RS) Skip 2 ch (counts as 1 sc), *work [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] into next ch, skip 2 ch; rep from * ending 1 sc into last ch, turn. 62 clusters
2. (WS) Ch 2, skip 1st sc and next dc, *work [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] into next ch sp, skip sc and dc; rep from * ending with [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] into last ch sp, skip next sc, 1 hdc into top of last sc in row 1, turn. 62 clusters
3. (RS) Ch 2, skip 1st hdc and next dc, *work [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] into next ch sp, skip sc and dc; rep from * ending with [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] into last ch sp, skip next sc, 1 hdc into top of last hdc in previous row, turn. 62 clusters
4. Rep row three 97 more times or until work measures 28”; Do not fasten off, turn.
Border:
Use H (5.00 mm) hook / Right side is always facing (Do not turn)
1. With right side facing and Main color yarn, ch 1 (does not count as sc), make [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in same corner, *work 1 sc in each st across, in corner [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc], rep * around omitting [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in first corner that has already been worked; then join with sl st to top of first sc; Do not turn.
2. Sl st in corner sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), 1 hdc in same corner sp, *work 1 hdc in each st across, in corner work [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc], rep * around and then join with sl st to 2nd ch, fasten off and weave in ends. Do not turn.
3. With Accent Yarn #3 (Blue), join with standing sc in any corner, ch 2, 1 sc in same corner, *work 1 bphdc around each post across, in corner work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc], rep * around and then join with sl st to top of first sc, do NOT fasten off; Do not turn.
4. Continuing with Blue yarn, Sl st in corner sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), 1 hdc in same corner sp, *work 1 hdc in each st across, in corner work [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc], rep * around and then join with sl st to 2nd ch, fasten off and weave in ends. Do not turn.
5. With Accent Yarn #1 (Flannel Gray), join with standing sc in any corner, ch 2, 1 sc in same corner, *work 1 bphdc around each post across, in corner work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc], rep * around and then join with sl st to top of first sc, do NOT fasten off; Do not turn.
6. Continuing with Gray yarn, Sl st in corner sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), 1 hdc in same corner sp, *work 1 hdc in each st across, in corner work [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc], rep * around and then join with sl st to 2nd ch, fasten off and weave in ends. Do not turn.
7. With Accent Yarn #2 (Mint Charm Green), join with standing sc in any corner, ch 2, 1 sc in same corner, *work 1 bphdc around each post across, in corner work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc], rep * around and then join with sl st to top of first sc, do NOT fasten off; Do not turn.
8. Continuing with Green yarn, Sl st in corner sp, ch 3 (counts as hdc and ch 1), 1 hdc in same corner sp, *work 1 hdc in each st across, in corner work [1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc], rep * around and then join with sl st to 2nd ch, fasten off and weave in ends. Do not turn.
9. With Main Color yarn, join with standing sc in any corner, ch 2, 1 sc in same corner, *work 1 bphdc around each post across, in corner work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc], rep * around and then join with sl st to top of first sc, do NOT fasten off; Do not turn.
10. Continuing with Main Color yarn, Sl st in corner ch sp, ch 3 (counts as dc and ch 1), 1 sc in same corner sp, sk 1 st, *work [1sc, ch 1, 1 dc] in next st, sk 1 st; Rep * around, working [1 sc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 1 sc] in corner ch spaces; in last corner sp, end with [1 sc, ch 1, 1 dc] and join with sl st to 2nd ch; fasten off and weave in ends.
If you prefer a pdf with a checklist, please feel free to download and print the link below.
The Reversible Sabino Sunrise hat is named for the beautiful Sabino Canyon sunrises that we have here in Tucson, AZ. Sabino has been one of my favorite places to go since I was little, so it was fitting to make a hat that is inspired by it. When I was going to Flagstaff with my son, this hat was born because it was a chilly 7 degrees when we were scheduled to visit. Since I don’t really own hats, I decided to design one. And, here we have the Reversible Sabino Sunrise hat!
It’s a very simple hat that works a few increased rounds, 6.75” on the body and then the ribbing. However, when I made it, I realized that the wrong side is just as pretty as the right side. So, I secured the pom pom with a button so that it’s removable, making the hat reversible. This is great for learning how to crochet a hat and is customizable to whatever size you need. Simply measure as you go and then you’ll have the perfect hat!
In the video below, please note that I call the Herringbone Half Double Crochet the Herringbone Double Crochet (sorry about that!).
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. As an affiliate, when you purchase through my links, you allow the company to pay me a small commission without costing you a penny more. This allows me to continue making free content. Thank you for your support!
Hbhdc: Herringbone half double crochet – this stitch is always worked in the back loop and third loop of the stitch starting on round 2: Yarn over, insert hook in back loop and third loop of stitch, draw up a loop and pull through stitch and first loop on hook, yarn over and then pull through remaining 2 loops on hook
Hk: Hook
Lp: Loop
Sc: Single crochet
Sl st: Slip stitch
Rep: Repeat
RS: Right side
Sk: Skip
St(s): Stitch (es)
WS: Wrong side
Yo: Yarn over
Here’s a pin for your Pinterest board 🙂
Notes:
Hat is worked in the round; until working the brim, do not turn work
Ch-2 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch
While working in the round, end each round with a slip stitch to the top of the first stitch
After round 1, you will always work the Herringbone Half Double Crochet stitch in the back and third loop. As a result of working in those loops the hat becomes reversible.
To customize the fit of the hat:
Measure the circumference of the head of the person that the hat is intended for. Subtract 2” / 5cm from that measurement (this gives a nice, snug fit). Then measure the circumference of the hat as you complete the increase rounds while you work them. Stop increasing when you get to the size needed; proceed to work the body of the hat. For example, my head is 22”, so I stopped increasing when the hat circumference measures 20”.
Directions for the Reversible Sabino Sunrise Hat:
Determine the circumference needed for your hat and then measure throughout the increase rounds. Stop when you get to your desired circumference and move on to the body of the hat.
Increase rounds
Using larger hook, Ch 3
In third ch from hk, work 10 Hbhdc, join with sl st to top of first st, do not turn. Gently pull yarn tail to close up st where 10 Hbhdc were worked.
Ch 2, work 2 Hbhdc (in back loop and third loop here and throughout the pattern) in ea st around, join with sl to top of first st; 20 Hbhdc
Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in next st; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 30 Hbhdc
Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 2 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 40 Hbhdc
Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 3 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 50 Hbhdc
Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 4 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 60 Hbhdc
Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 5 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 70 Hbhdc
Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 6 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 80 Hbhdc
If you need to continue increasing your stitch count to make your hat larger, use the following increase directions:
Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 7 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 90 Hbhdc
Ch 2, *2 Hbhdc in next st, 1 Hbhdc in ea of next 8 sts; rep * around, join with sl st to top of first st; 100 Hbhdc
Body of hat
Ch 2, 1 Hbhdc in each st around, join with sl st to top of first st
Repeat body round until hat reaches 6.75” / 17.1 cm or your desired length from beginning of body; do not cut yarn.
Ribbing
This makes a 2.5” / 6.4 cm ribbing – if you would like smaller or larger ribbing, simply add or subtract chain amounts.
Use smaller hook with RS facing and continue as if working in the round
Ch 10, in second ch from hook work 1 sc in the back loop and 1 sc in back loop in ea of remaining 8 chs (9 sc total), 1 sl st in back loop and third loop in ea of the next 2 sts, turn
Sk 2 sl sts, work 1 sc in back loop in ea st across, turn (9 sc)
Ch 1, work 1 sc in back loop in next st and remaining 8 sts, 1 sl st in back loop and third loop of next 2 sts, turn (9 sc total)
Repeat rows 2-3 around the hat.
Sl st in last 2 sts (or 1 st if that’s all you have left), then repeat row 2
Seam together using your preferred method.
Make pom pom and sew it on to the hat using a button to secure the pom pom ends.
Have fun with this and please tag me on social media @handmadebystacyj and #handmadebystacyj – I’d love to see your hat!
This pattern is copyright 2022 Handmade by Stacy J. Please do not duplicate or copy any portion of this pattern, as well as photographs. You are encouraged to share images of your final product and are allowed to sell final products. I ask that if you sell your final product, please purchase the ad-free pdf, provide your own photographs and credit Handmade by Stacy J as the designer. Thank you for your support!
